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Originally posted by blind:
if you have a/c and dont want to discharge it I've heard the job is a REAL bitch

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I have AC, and didn't open the system up when changing my system. Do a search in this section and you'll see my thread with a good link to use. I did it by myself in a few hours in a one car garage.
 

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Posted by migs66/92 (Member # 4811) on :
 
also could that been the problem to the overheating?????
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
you can bypass the core, I did that for a few months.


the 2 hoses that go into the core, one is larger than the other, remove the small one and loop the larger one around to the other metal tube.

yes it could cause overheating, a leak in the cooling system means that its not holding pressure and it will run hotter.

also as it leaks, the water is replaced with air which REALLY makes the car overheat.
 

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Posted by z pyro (Member # 3745) on :
 
I went to autozone/kragen and got a bypass hose. it goes from one size down to the other, and i just bent it over and clamped it on. i dont use the heater hardly anyways
 

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Posted by 1FAST89GT (Member # 5071) on :
 
get a 3/8 90 deg heater hose elbow and conect those two hoses it makes it alot easier. they should be all over the help isle
 

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Posted by jph331 (Member # 665) on :
 
Here is my reply to someone else before.

The heater core is pretty easy after you do it a couple of times. Your first time will take about 5 hours. The last one I did was took me 2 hours and that was while at work. Not what I was supposed to be doing.

1 remove center console and heater control assy from dash.

2 start removing dash but not completly.

a: remove top cover, speaker covers then remove the 4 or 5 7mm screws. May need to remove pass speaker to remove wire

b: Remove both kick panels and the 8mm screws holding dash (metal bracket). On passenger side there is a couple of connectors in the kick panel are that need to be disconnected so the dash can be pulled away.

c: remove paneling under steering wheel(dash panel also) and the 4 8mm bolts holding the 6inch metal bracket for the metal dash support, 2 from the front 2 from the bottom.

d: remove hood release bracket 2 nuts and then the 4 nuts that hold up the steering column. Lower column

e: under the column is a 12mm or 13mm nut holding the dash to pedal assy bracket. Loosen nut

f: remove instrument cluster completely.

g: You should be able to pull the dash from the passenger side and swing over to the drivers side. There may be some wires that need to be disconnected. I will sometimes remove the drivers seat so the column is completely out of the way.


3 remove 7/16 screw from bottom of heater control box on the passenger side.(screw is hard to see. Its located on the bottom near the transmission tunnel)

a: from engine compartment side remove vaccum hose that goes through the firewall above the accumulator.(black cylinder with hoses that go to ac compressor.

b: remove 2 7/16 nuts holding accumulator to firewall. Now you need to bend these brackets to gain access to the 2 7/16 nuts underneath bracket. May need to remove 8mm bolt holding bracket to accululator.

c: remove heater hoses.

d: from inside remove the 2 7/16 bolts holding heater box to car. They are the 2 metal brackets that go from the box to the car at the top of box

e: the heater box should now be able to pull out and down enough to access heater core cover screws. Heater box does not come out completely

f: remove the top 3 screws. 2 front ones are easy. left rear is somewhat difficult. Now the right rear is where you take a long screwdriver or something similar and break the ear of the cover. Just place your screwdriver by the screw and give it one good tap with a hammer. Should break pretty easy.

g: The cover has some sealent goo but usually comes off with a little prying. Now actually removing the cover is kinda tricky. A little twist here and there should work.

h: remove heater core

i: pressure test heater core before installing is a good idea.

4 when reinstalling heater core cover be careful not to damage heater core. I will sometimes grind down the edges on the rear of the cover.

5: Reassemble

I think I covered everything. I could have removed heater core in the amount of time it took me to write this down.
 

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Posted by migs66/92 (Member # 4811) on :
 
alright i got home after bypassing the heater hose i got one of those 90* elbow and it went pretty easy but on the way home it still wanted to overheat. I had to stop a couple of times just to get home i dont know what else to do i think im just gonna sell this piece of shit and fix the 66. By the way it has new water pump, new 180* thermostat, new electric fan,and head gaskets just got redone, i just dont know what else it could be. any suggestions??????
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
have the radiator cap tested?

how did you bleed the system of air?
 

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Posted by 1FAST89GT (Member # 5071) on :
 
its prob. air from the fluid loss of the heater core leak. purge the system one more time before u sell it
 

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Posted by hidnn.o.s. (Member # 1219) on :
 
I'd question the person/s that did the head gasket job if you have had this problem since it was done.
 

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Posted by migs66/92 (Member # 4811) on :
 
yeah id question it too since it was me who did the gasket j/k i went exactly by the book
 

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Posted by migs66/92 (Member # 4811) on :
 
how do you purge the system???
 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
jack up the front of the car or park it on the lip of your driveway so that the radiator cap is the highest point, open the cap and let the car idle up to temp, watch the water level and keep your face away from the opening, air will work its way out in big bubbles so just keep adding water/coolant until it stops and the temperature holds around 195*s or whatever temp thermostat you have.


fill the overflow bottle to the full hot line, cap it back up and take it for a drive.
 

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Posted by migs66/92 (Member # 4811) on :
 
thanks blind you the man
 

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