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Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :
 
would you buy a 67 mustang. Here's what i know.
it's a 67 clean tittle,
New red paint.
hella clean porn red interior (which doesn't look too bad at all)
Stock Motor.. what's that a 289?
Rebuilt tranny. (auto)
Car's sat in the garage for the last 3 years while this guy went to college.

wants 5k, but will offer 4k and will walk away at 4.5k.

What do u think?

[ July 08, 2005, 06:15 PM: Message edited by: Jmir018 ]
 

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Posted by 88gt (Member # 579) on :
 
Are you going to drive this every day?

Sounds OK, but you'd really need to check out the engine/tranny and suspension to see what kind of shape it is.

Even though the paint is "new" you never know how good it is til you see it.

If the car checks out, 4.5k isn't bad for a nice 67.
 

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Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :
 
is there really no way of checking the vin number of a car prior 81?

This is the vin he gave me 7f01c199774. not only is it short, i have no way of checking it..
Does anyoen know of anyway of checking it out?
thanks.

This is exactly what the car looks like..
expect that it has an all red interior..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4559528634

[ July 07, 2005, 19:48: Message edited by: Jmir018 ]
 

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Posted by jadesville (Member # 5093) on :
 
There's no way to run a report like carfax, the closet you'll probably come across is a Marti report, which is an extensive report that you can buy a repoduction dealer window sticker, gain statisitics and all kinds of information and options your car originally came with when it was built.

But with just the vin number, I can tell you it's a 1967, assembled in Dearborn, Michigan, originally as a Hardtop original stock engine is a 289 2V, and 199774 is the consecutive unit number. If you get the datacode off the doorplate on the driver side, you can find out the original paint code, interior trim, the date code, rear axle code and transmission it was originally equipped with.

I'd have concern over the car sitting. When I bought my 68, It sat in the garage for a number of years, and the rear main seal, transmission seals, power steering seals & rear seals began hardened up and started leaking.

There's a huge list of things you're going to have to inspect on the car if you're looking to buy one.

[ July 07, 2005, 21:02: Message edited by: jadesville ]
 

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Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :
 
thanks.
What are some of the other things that i should be concerned about.
I was thinkin of cheaking for rust,
balljoints, bushings, suspension componets, control arms.
will i be able to detect rust from underneath the car or will i have to remove the carpet to be sure.
Anyother things you can think of?
 

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Posted by jadesville (Member # 5093) on :
 
Rust is pretty the main concern.

I would start with the cowl. If the owner lets you, take a quart of water and poor it into the cowl, if it leaks, it will drip into the passenger compartment under the dashboard. Cowl's are difficult and time consuming to repair and can be expensive.

Go underneath the car and take a look at the floor pans, floor pans are generally easy to replace. Take a look at the frame rails and the torque boxes. I'd especially look for shady repair jobs on the floorpans, if they've been replaced. Often these cars will rust from the inside out, so if the owner will let you, peel back the carpet, look for surface rust on the floor boards, if you have surface rust on the passenger side, it may give you an idea if the heater core was leaking or not, especially if the floor pan is rusted on just that side, and the torque boxes and frame rails are cherry. There's four frame rails, and these are very difficult to check, these should be cherry.

Take a look at the fender aprons, if the battery is still located up front, check underneath the bracket for rust and decay. Look at the shock towers for cracks, especially where they mate at the frame rails. If the radiator support has been replaced, it could give you an idea of the car was in an accident. Also peak behind the hood hinges, sometimes these where they are bolted to on the aprons can get ripped up pretty bad. Looking at the top of the aprons, comparing them to the rest, if they are missing holes to mount the fender too, it is a reproduction peice.

Take a look at the lower doors and see if there's any obvious bondo, any bubbling on the paint, or vinyl top if it has one, will give you an idea of where it's rusting at.

Check around the windsheild moulding, drip rails and the rear window moulding for rust, sometimes you can take a flashlight and shine it and peak through, hopefully they removed the moulding when they painted the car. Open up the trunk , if he has matting, ask him if you can take a look at the trunk drop offs with a flash light.

Does the car have power steering? If it does, when you go on the test drive, make sure you go for atleast a 10 minute drive, and when you pull back, go under the car and look for leaks. Places to look for is at the power ram, control valve and at the pump. If it doesnt, don't worry about it, but take a look at the condition of the linkage. Check the steering wheel freeplay, the average is aroud 1 inch.

The car could have been either equipped with front drums or discs, depending on the options, but most likely drums. If it has discs, make sure to question him about it, a common swap is the Granada/Maverick swap onto these cars, there's differences in the spindles, specifically the steering arm has a larger bore for a different size tie rod which is larger. If it has power brakes, make sure the booster isn't leaking. You can typically tell if the master cylinder is leaking if you see paint either faded or wiped clean and see the underlaying coat of primer behind the steering gear box and on the side of the frame rail.

I would find out if the engine has ever been rebuilt, how many miles are on it, tyoe of oil he's been putting in it, etc. Doesnt hurt to run a compression test. Listen for the normal things when he's running the engine. Since that transmission has been rebuilt, if it's been recently, it better be damn well clean.

There's a lot more, this is what has hit me for now, if you do go ahead and buy it, let me ask you, what do you plan to do with the car? You'll also want to get all of his logs and receipts.

[ July 07, 2005, 22:23: Message edited by: jadesville ]
 

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Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :
 
thanks a lot for all this info,
I'll look for all the basic stuff tomorrow and test drive it.
If everything goes well, I will hopefully take it to my buddies shop and examine it in detail when it's up on the lift.
I've always wanted a classic mustang. i plan on leaving it stock and start playing more with the 93 i have..
Or i might go the otherway around and build the 67 very slowly and keep the 93 as my daily driver with a basic hci combo.
 

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Posted by losbadgt (Member # 4394) on :
 
if u go after 4 in the afternoon give me a call so i could go with u, and if u do get it just slaped a 03 cobra engine on it just to get the whine sound again.
 

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Posted by jadesville (Member # 5093) on :
 
If only a 32v would fit without lots of modification

[ July 07, 2005, 11:46 PM: Message edited by: jadesville ]
 

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Posted by shiftylx (Member # 2670) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by jadesville:
Rust is pretty the main concern.

I would start with the cowl. If the owner lets you, take a quart of water and poor it into the cowl, if it leaks, it will drip into the passenger compartment under the dashboard. Cowl's are difficult and time consuming to repair and can be expensive.

Go underneath the car and take a look at the floor pans, floor pans are generally easy to replace. Take a look at the frame rails and the torque boxes. I'd especially look for shady repair jobs on the floorpans, if they've been replaced. Often these cars will rust from the inside out, so if the owner will let you, peel back the carpet, look for surface rust on the floor boards, if you have surface rust on the passenger side, it may give you an idea if the heater core was leaking or not, especially if the floor pan is rusted on just that side, and the torque boxes and frame rails are cherry. There's four frame rails, and these are very difficult to check, these should be cherry.

Take a look at the fender aprons, if the battery is still located up front, check underneath the bracket for rust and decay. Look at the shock towers for cracks, especially where they mate at the frame rails. If the radiator support has been replaced, it could give you an idea of the car was in an accident. Also peak behind the hood hinges, sometimes these where they are bolted to on the aprons can get ripped up pretty bad. Looking at the top of the aprons, comparing them to the rest, if they are missing holes to mount the fender too, it is a reproduction peice.

Take a look at the lower doors and see if there's any obvious bondo, any bubbling on the paint, or vinyl top if it has one, will give you an idea of where it's rusting at.

Check around the windsheild moulding, drip rails and the rear window moulding for rust, sometimes you can take a flashlight and shine it and peak through, hopefully they removed the moulding when they painted the car. Open up the trunk , if he has matting, ask him if you can take a look at the trunk drop offs with a flash light.

Does the car have power steering? If it does, when you go on the test drive, make sure you go for atleast a 10 minute drive, and when you pull back, go under the car and look for leaks. Places to look for is at the power ram, control valve and at the pump. If it doesnt, don't worry about it, but take a look at the condition of the linkage. Check the steering wheel freeplay, the average is aroud 1 inch.

The car could have been either equipped with front drums or discs, depending on the options, but most likely drums. If it has discs, make sure to question him about it, a common swap is the Granada/Maverick swap onto these cars, there's differences in the spindles, specifically the steering arm has a larger bore for a different size tie rod which is larger. If it has power brakes, make sure the booster isn't leaking. You can typically tell if the master cylinder is leaking if you see paint either faded or wiped clean and see the underlaying coat of primer behind the steering gear box and on the side of the frame rail.

I would find out if the engine has ever been rebuilt, how many miles are on it, tyoe of oil he's been putting in it, etc. Doesnt hurt to run a compression test. Listen for the normal things when he's running the engine. Since that transmission has been rebuilt, if it's been recently, it better be damn well clean.

There's a lot more, this is what has hit me for now, if you do go ahead and buy it, let me ask you, what do you plan to do with the car? You'll also want to get all of his logs and receipts.

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nice info man!!
 

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Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :
 
so.. i checked the car.
it's all great exept for one thing.
The bushings in the shifter handle are gone so it feels kinda loose and it has a significant amount of rust in the passenger side floor panel.
It's got a freaking hole in the door panel.. everything else is clean as hell.
He's put 13k miles in the last 8 years..
tranny was rebuilt 2k miles ago.. (3 years ago)

So.. should i try fixing this or just looking for another one.
couple of crappy pics



 

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Posted by blind (Member # 3052) on :
 
I'd personally walk away, you'll find another
 

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Posted by jadesville (Member # 5093) on :
 
It honestly depends what you want to do with the car. If you want to build it up performance wise, I would pass. If you want a stock car, and you can handle repairing it, it's not hard to do, not expensive. Where's the hole in the door panel?

It's really hard to make out in the pictures though.
 

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Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :
 
it's right where you would weld the full length subframe connectors.
I plan on leaving it as a stocker.. but then again.. i said the same thing about the vert i had.. and now i can't stop messing with it.
So.. i guess it's better to walk away, huh?
 

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Posted by jadesville (Member # 5093) on :
 
All depends what you want and are looking for in a car, condition, etc. From time to time I see some great deals on craigslist, but I have MAJOR issues with some of the people who do business on that site.
 

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Posted by hidnn.o.s. (Member # 1219) on :
 
Leave that car alone...........
 

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Posted by Jmir018 (Member # 1414) on :
 
i am.. i quit my second job today so.. i won't have spare money for stupid things like this..
Let's let this thread die peacefully
 

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