T O P I C R E V I E W
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johnson50
Member # 4608
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posted
just wondering where the temperature sensor is on a 88 gt.
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JohnB
Member # 969
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posted
There are two...
One is on the transfer tubes (to-from the heater core). This one is for the computer... One is screwed into the intake, driver's side, and that's for the gauge.
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johnson50
Member # 4608
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posted
on the transfer tubes, are those parallel to the fuel lines that run under the throttle body. and the other is exactly where again? thanks john
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johnson50
Member # 4608
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posted
and john, could that have anything to do with my problem i have.
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h8louzn
Member # 1075
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posted
I'm not john but yes the black ones that run under the t/b. Don't know about your problem so cant help with that.
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JohnB
Member # 969
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posted
I really doubt it's your problem. Did you put the original EGR valve back on? The only one that *could* cause a problem is the coolant temp sensor (the one on the black tubes). Disconnect it, see if it throws a CEL. I doubt it will though.
Have you put any thought into getting rid of that stock intake? A TFS 1 cam and those heads aren't the best combo with a stock intake.
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h8louzn
Member # 1075
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posted
Hey John, Is he having erg problems? If so that cts can have a effect on that. The egr won't start opening untill after 125 degrees as seen at that sensor. If you don't mind throw up the problem as I just went through a bunch of smog stuff with mine maybe I can be of some help. Eddie
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johnson50
Member # 4608
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posted
yes i did change the egr back to the original. i also remembered that on my #6 injector, the sensor that goes on top of the injector, on both sides of the cap, one of the hooks are broken off so the cap can move around on the injector. do any of you think that could no be giving a good connection to the injector?
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johnson50
Member # 4608
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posted
ok i took it out for a drive after i made shure the injector cap is on there tight and now it seem that the car looses power right when i smash down the throttle all the way. so when i have the throttle only 1\2 to 3\4 open, it does not loose power. this problem is pissing me off, im about to drove my car off a cliff!!!!!!!I think i am just going to take to get a diagnostic done on it to see what the hell the problem is.
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h8louzn
Member # 1075
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posted
Is the car a mass air car? If so have you tried to unhook the mass air meter and see what it does? If not try that and post back.
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johnson50
Member # 4608
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posted
i have a nearly new mass air meter, it is a pro m 73 mm so that could not be it, now the problem exists through out all the gears. it seems that it only happens when i open the throttle 100 percent. i lose power when i floor it, so any of you think it could be something with the computer or the ignition? and it only started to happen when i changed my engine out with a new long block. a new block, cam, and heads. everything else is exactly the same.
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Cstang50
Member # 4925
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posted
how about fuel pump? is it the stock one
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h8louzn
Member # 1075
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posted
I know it's not likley but try and unplug the Mass air anyway. At least it one more thing out of the way. It only uses the mass air meter and computer when your at WOT. Try it and let us know!
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Mr JoCo
Member # 1549
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posted
Hey bro I have the EXACT same problem. My car pulls good except at WOT. It looses power and accelerates slower than if I gradually open the throttle...
WTF? I changed everything though, and have a baseline tuned chip. EGR, MAP sensor, and O2 sensors have all been turned off via chip.
Where are you going to take it to get diagnostics? I'm fresh out of ideas as well, I've been trying to figure it out for the past month
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CDT
Member # 5004
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posted
We would be happy to take a look at both your cars.
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johnson50
Member # 4608
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posted
yes i have a new fuel pump, it is a 155lph bbk. tomorrow i am going to hook a diagnostic tester to it and see what the problem is. thanks for all your help and if anyone has any more answers please help. this problem is making me crazy. once agin the mad face
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