T O P I C R E V I E W
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35thanniversary
Member # 2226
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posted
worth it? i've heard that it kills gas mileage, and conflicts with timing.... thoughts?
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FasterDamnit
Member # 442
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posted
And what sensor would that be? Quite a few under the hood. And for what year cars? What is the mod?
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JoeT
Member # 298
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posted
$2 on the IAT resistor-mod
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35thanniversary
Member # 2226
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posted
my bad...i was referring to the IAT sensor. also talking about a 99GT.
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35thanniversary
Member # 2226
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posted
quote: Originally posted by JoeT: $2 on the IAT resistor-mod
do you know if it's safe? or if it even works?
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JoeT
Member # 298
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posted
35th anniversary implies on a '99? I wouldn't do it.
basically it's forcing the car to run full timing more often. You can do the same thing with a timing adjuster on your car. It's not the same thing as forcing the timing higher at all times... it just prevents the car from pulling timing when hot. something I'd assume you'd rather have, especially if you run on 87, in the summer, with the A/C on.
I wouldn't do it. At the track if you REALLY wanted to, just ice the IAT sensor too, no need to remove it. heh.
edit: we're talking about 1 or 2 degrees of pulled timing when hot, at least that's what it was EEC-IV, I don't know about EEC-V [ March 04, 2005, 02:24 PM: Message edited by: JoeT ]
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FasterDamnit
Member # 442
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posted
Theory is the ECU thinks that the aircharge is colder than it really is and will add fuel and timing. Never seen it done. Besides, that sensor is just one of many being used to decide the fuel and spark settings. But, what the hell, at that price, why not try it and report back?
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Joooestang66
Member # 2828
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posted
The IAT is used in conjunction with the MAF, TP, CKP, CMP, and 02's to help calculate the engine load, timing, and fuel trims. I don't see how modifying it will give you more power. It's taking a component out of the equation. I worked on a 98' GT with a resistor on the IAT connector and a plug in the air inlet tube, he was complaining of a spark knock on high rpm's. Removed the resistor, installed the IAT in the air inlet tube, reset the KAM, no more spark knock.
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