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Originally posted by NorCalRydaz:
Yeah I though about that and I switch the rotor 180 degrees. Now as the number one piston is up and the balancer is at zero I put the rotor facing the number one piston. I put the plug back in ans connected the wire but all it does is kinda miss fire but NO ENGINE START.

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This isnt the right way but....pull the plug wires off and move them over one slot at a time. Try to start the car each time as someone moves the distributor back and forth. It will be running within 10 minutes.
 

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Posted by NorCalRydaz (Member # 3233) on :
 
Yeah, I'd check the timing, firing order

WHat does someone mean check the firing order. The black part of the rotor is suppose to be facing the number one piston right? I put new injectors and it's still not starting up. DAMN !! I can hear it want to start!!!
 

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Posted by mustangcam302 (Member # 2315) on :
 
Ok, pull the distributor back out, set the motor to #1 TDC compression. Now, set the rotor portion of the distributor to the #1 spot(should be marked on the outside of cap telling which post is #1). With out moving the rotor from that spot, put it in. It may take some manuvering of the distributor, but just make sure the rotor doesnt move from the #1 spot. An extra hand comes in handy here.....try startin it up and have the other person turn the distributor until u can get it runnin smoothly, and check the timing.
 

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Posted by DropTopFox (Member # 1689) on :
 
Sounds like wrong firing order to me, possible you could have a bad starter or solenoid tough sine your problem is getting it to start
 

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Posted by saleenfan (Member # 1605) on :
 
Like mustangcam302 said, make sure you are on the #1 cylinder TDC COMPRESSION stroke. Just because the dampner is pointed at TDC doesn't mean it is in the compression stroke. It may be in the TDC exhaust stroke. Anyway, pull the distributor back out. Pull out the #1 spark plug and put your finger in the spark plug hole. Use a remote starter or have a friend crank the motor until you feel pressure on your finger. If you feel pressure then you are on the compression stroke. Turn the crankshaft over by hand and line the pointer up to the TDC mark on the dampner. Re-install the spark plug. Drop the distributor in with the rotor facing #1 on the distributor cap (the rotor will be pointing towards the back of the motor if installed properly). Make sure the spark plug wires are installed properly and in the proper firing order(1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8). If you have spark and fuel that thing should fire up. It will run rough until you have the timing set. If you've been cranking it excessively and you smell fuel, the spark plugs may be wet with fuel and may not fire up. You may have to remove the spark plugs and dry them. Or, if you have a remote starter, you could hold the throttle body wide open and crank the engine over a few times to help dry the plugs and remove any raw fuel in the cylinders. If you use the key in this procedure, the injectors will cycle and spray fuel unless you remove the fuel pump relay to disable the fuel pump.

[ September 20, 2003, 01:20 AM: Message edited by: saleenfan ]
 

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Posted by NorCalRydaz (Member # 3233) on :
 
I pulled my valve covers off and saw that ALL MY EXHAUST PUSHRODS WERE BENT. WHAT NOW??? APM in Morgan Hill did my motor and put new lifters could that make my exhaust pushrods bent??
 

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Posted by Fast472Mach1 (Member # 2559) on :
 
Your cam have a lot of duration or a lot of lift on the exhaust side? Your lucky thats all it did. The valve is hitting the piston.
 

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Posted by stoauto (Member # 2803) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Fast472Mach1:
Your cam have a lot of duration or a lot of lift on the exhaust side? Your lucky thats all it did. The valve is hitting the piston.

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what he said.
 

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Posted by NorCalRydaz (Member # 3233) on :
 
I HAVE A STOCK CAM.. Could it be that I need different lifters? The guy that put my engine in put new lifters.. What else could it be???
 

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Posted by Fast472Mach1 (Member # 2559) on :
 
If your cam was stock then you wouldnt be able to have interference with the piston. The only way I can think of to bend every exhaust valve is to have the piston come up and hit the valve while it is down. Something has to give and it was the pushrods. No other way you can bend all of them like that in the manner yours did. You should ask the builder for sure what the cam specs are and what pistons were used. Then again you said it was popping when you tried tostart it. So if everything else you said is correct, then your timing chain may be one tooth off, causing contact.

[ September 20, 2003, 06:23 PM: Message edited by: Fast472Mach1 ]
 

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Posted by NorCalRydaz (Member # 3233) on :
 
I bought a smog pump eliminator and I got rid of all the smog stuff. I plugged the two little holes in the back of the heads where the smogs hoses go. COULD THAT HAVE BENT MY RODS???
 

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Posted by 331ci89Vert (Member # 1437) on :
 
Sounds to me like problem with the timing chain if its a stock cam. Take that shit back to the engine builder. And no a smog pump eliminator in now way will cause pushrods to bend. If all exhaust pushrods were bent the valve has to be hitting the piston as i dont know of any other way to bend all at the same time. Pull the timing cover and see if everything is lined up.

Mike
 

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Posted by JohnB (Member # 969) on :
 
....the timing chain is on wrong...
 

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Posted by 91 5.0 (Member # 1527) on :
 
How the fuck do you put that shit on wrong??????
 

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Posted by 99gt-UJSTLST (Member # 584) on :
 
TIMEING CHAIN IS on wrong or well better yet the cam is on wrong

if thats the case I would check to make sure it does not have any bent valves
 

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Posted by NorCalRydaz (Member # 3233) on :
 
Thanks ALOT FOR ALL THE HELP U GUYS GAVE! What had happened was I timed it wrong and then I kept tryings to turn it over. I kept playing wit the distributer and the back fire was what bent my rods. I timed it right bought new Pushrods and It's running like a CHAMP. THANKS TO ALL
 

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