This is topic Ignition swtich problem... in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
So the large plug came loose that goes into my ignition switch and cause the car to die while driving down the road. This is a 87 5.0, So i push is back up there and starts working again but then falls out later and so I had to pull over and do it again. However he spring fell out so when I got the car running again after a few minutes the key turned to the "start" position and started cranking the starter...Not sure if it wrecked the silniod or the starter. I got everthing hooked up today all normal but I am not getting anything at all.
So #1 how much is that switch? I know there is a safety recall on it. Where do I get it?
#2 how do I check if the starter is bad/ silinod is bad?
 
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
The switch is $15 from Ford. You need tamper proof torx bits to replace it.
 
Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
Thanks Sawson!
 
Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
Ok so now when I go to turn the key sometimes I get accesorries and fuel pump, but then when I go to start it all dies with nothing, no click no power anywhere. then it sits like that for awhile and I can't get anything. How do I test the silnoid/starter? I really wanted to drive to san diego today and then is going to fuck it up for me... Thanks Casey
 
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
To test the solenoid just short the two copper posts/bolts with some old plyers (watch for sparks) and make sure the car is OUT OF GEAR. The starter.... I think auto parts stores can test them.


I still don't clearly understand your problem though [burnout]
 
Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
I just did that and got NOTHING, so does that mean just the silnoid is bad? and starter is hopefully ok? thanks Casey

To clear it up:
Ignition switch went bad, causeing car to try and start while driving down the road, now that I stopped it won't do anything. I am thinking replace, switch and silniod and on my way. Execpt I have no way to ford. calling friends now lol
 
Posted by shade-tree (Member # 298) on :
 
check your trunk mount battery wiring bro [Big Grin]
 
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
So when you try to crank the car over, does the solinoid "click" ? When you connecto the two terminals on the solenoid together with plyers, do you get any spark/activity?


Is your battery dead?
 
Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by shade-tree:
check your trunk mount battery wiring bro [Big Grin]

Of all the stories I have heard about your wiring/underhood issues, I think mine are all just fine [burnout]
 
Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
So when you try to crank the car over, does the solinoid "click" ? When you connecto the two terminals on the solenoid together with plyers, do you get any spark/activity?


Is your battery dead?

no activty at all, dead. however battery is working fine tested voltage in mutiple spots. However with the igniton switch, if its bad which i know it is would kill all power anyways. It controls a lot.
 
Posted by 91sleeper (Member # 779) on :
 
Have your battery tested so you can see if that could be a problem Then you can rule that out.

Theres a tool at monument you can get which bypasses the solenoid so if you hook it up and it starts it means that the solenoid is bad. You neeed to get one of these so that you can rule out the solenoid.

After you have ruled out the battery and solenoid and your car doesnt start then its time for you to get a new starter. Have fun removing that top bolt. [Big Grin]
 
Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
Battery is fine I have a charger/tester at house. Ingntion switch is what fucked up you can see a burn mark on one of the contacts, also there is a safety recall on them for start fires [Eek!] [Eek!] Anyways where is this monument place? never heard of it? can I get the same thing from autozone or something. Thanks Casey
 
Posted by 91sleeper (Member # 779) on :
 
Even thoguh your charger might say its charged your battery might still have dead cells inside it.

Go get an ignition switch and replace that first before you do anything else.
 
Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
OK I need a ride bad people I am trying to go to San Diego right now, its just from my house in east sac 40th and H down to ford, like 5 minutes. If you know where Sac State is I am not far from there. Anyone in sac right now that can do me a favor????
 
Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
Does autozone or someone have these "You need tamper proof torx bits to replace it. " thanks Casey
 
Posted by 91sleeper (Member # 779) on :
 
Yes they do, I wish I lived closer to you I would fix your car for you. [Frown]
 
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
91sleeper - An old pair of pliers is the tool most people use to bypass their solinoids [Big Grin]


KCmustangboy- Sorry for the lag, been busy at work and handling the ghetto trouble starters in ford-sale. The tamper proof torx bits can be found at Harbor Freight. That's where I Got mine. They're the torx bits with a hole in the middle. The dealership should also have them. This ignition switch is nothing special. I have an extra one around somehwere. I think 4 cyl mustangs used the same part, as did many other Ford's.
 
Posted by 67aquafastback (Member # 3090) on :
 
The torx is a tamper proof t-27 and the recall on the switch is a 95S28 but it only covers 1988 to 92 cars and trucks the 1987 and older are not covered by the recall. Replace the switch and recheck for starting concern. If still having a problem jump the starter relay if that starts the car replace the relay if not try hitting the starter not Too HARD and have someone hold the key in the crank position if this gets it started replace the starter. Also Load Test The Battery No Power No Start
 




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