This is topic Rotting negative terminal in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
Well, finally got home yesterday, and decided to clean out my engine bay today. Started with the battery... and never finished...

My negative terminal wire's rubber seems to have ripped open, and the copper is exposed. Except that the copper's entirely full of lime-like corrosion. I can hit the wire, and make some of the white powdery crap loosen and fly out of the ripped open holes, but it just keeps pouring out. Then I tried to loosen the terminals and free the wires to work with them separately, but that ended poorly. I could turn the nut on one of the terminals (the other one was too stripped to even get the socket to grip), but the other end just spins freely as well. Anyone know how I can loosen this crap without going out to buy antiseize? And has anyone else had the problem with the negative terminal going to hell? Any advice is appreciated.
 
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
Old age. Just rip/cut off the old cable and go to a parts store, Target, Walmart, ect and buy a new cable.
 
Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
Upon closer inspection... it seems that the damage wasn't limited to the negative terminal alone, my positive connector is missing a decent amount (15-20%) of metal. Should I get a new battery and let whoever's installing it take care of getting the crap loose?
 
Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
So you're saying just get a new piece of cable.. any advice on how to connect the two? I have a feeling my soldering abilities which are limited to headphone repair won't really cut it for heavy duty copper cables...
 
Posted by Jdub07 (Member # 2728) on :
 
do you need a new battary? If you are in need of a new battery just cut the terminals off of the cables and get rid of the whole battery and cable terminals. Go to the store buy new terminal attachers thingies and bolt them to your cables then bolt the terminals to the battery. Very simple.
 
Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
sounds like a good idea, but i'll probably still have to replace the negative terminal wire too.. thanks for your help
 
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
The wire/cable is sold pre-assembled with connectors for about $6. You may notice faster cranking and engine starts with fresh cables [patriot]
 
Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
Ooo where can I find that?
 
Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
Well crapshaets. I just took a look at the cables. Turns out the positive and negative combine into one big bundle surrounded by currougated plastic, and then it goes under the car, across the underside of the engine, and up somewhere. I lose it at that point. Anyone tried replacing the terminal cables on an SN95 5.0 before? If so, I really need help. It seems bit tedious =(
 
Posted by ONELOWSPLITBUMPR ON N2O ANDONELOWLX (Member # 2067) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Ming:
Well crapshaets. I just took a look at the cables. Turns out the positive and negative combine into one big bundle surrounded by currougated plastic, and then it goes under the car, across the underside of the engine, and up somewhere. I lose it at that point. Anyone tried replacing the terminal cables on an SN95 5.0 before? If so, I really need help. It seems bit tedious =(
are you a girl?? if a girl are you hott? if no to either question, i cant help you sorry.
[Big Grin]
 
Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
Haha note to self, get more manly forum name...
Sorry to burst your bubble, I'm not a girl. Just an idiot when it comes to cars.
 
Posted by ONELOWSPLITBUMPR ON N2O ANDONELOWLX (Member # 2067) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Ming:
Haha note to self, get more manly forum name...
Sorry to burst your bubble, I'm not a girl. Just an idiot when it comes to cars.
lol it is alright bro
[dance]
 
Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
Sorry guys, need some help again. I went to look for battery cables, and the longest Kragens had was 54'', which I didn't think was long enough. I called the dealer, and since the two cables go into a bundle of other wires before they loop around the engine, I'd have to order that entire bundle, and it'd run me $300. Does anyone know where a good DIY ground spot on the engine would be? This is for a SN95 5.0 btw. Thanks.
 
Posted by cheap (Member # 858) on :
 
I believe those cables run under the car to the starter motor. It's the round thing located on the back/underside of the enigne itself on the lower passengerside of the car. It's mounted to the bellhousing (the big metal thing attached to the back of your engine that covers your clutch).
 
Posted by Ming (Member # 2336) on :
 
I wish my head was small enough for me to go verify that. Anyone in the Fremont bay area with some spare jack stands? =D
 
Posted by outlawd94cobra (Member # 265) on :
 
I had that problem a long time ago...do what i did because i did'nt feel like getting my hands dirty..... Go to SEARS buy an OPTIMA or DIEHARD battery for the 80-120 bucks, and they'll install it, fix your cables, and you'll have your three year warranty. LMAO....i needed a new battery though at the time so figured fuck it. Really though, i doubt you have to change the WHOLE battery cable line(all the way down). Just half of it, splice it, and get new connector terminals.
 




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