This is topic E cam shift point??? in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by DropTopFox (Member # 1689) on :
 
Hey guys I'm new at driving a stick. I just bought 66 AC Cobra's sweet vert. Has a Bennett Racing built 306 in it with 10:1 compression and an E-cam. Has stock heads and intake ported. I know the shift point with a stock cam is usually about 5500 RPM. That is what I have the shift light set at right now. Is that where I should leave it or should I change the shift point to something else because it'll be a while before I get to the dyno to be able to really tell. Thanks
Ryan
 

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Posted by 88gt (Member # 579) on :
 
I'm not sure where you should be shifting with that combo and cam...its hard to tell for sure without track testing. Also, who knows how much those heads and intake were really ported. That'll factor in.

Also, I'd argue that a stock motor might benefit from shifting a little lower than 5500.
 

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Posted by 98slowhoe (Member # 895) on :
 
its kinda hard to say considering each car and engine set-up is a tad different. You just kinda have to be able to find where your car stops pulling and runs best by getting time behind the wheel and getting numbers at the track. I know a few guys shift by the meter or there ass (i did it for a little while) just drive your car and learn how it reponds would be my best advice, I am sure there are plenty other guys that will tell you different.
 

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Posted by KCmustangboy (Member # 1927) on :
 
make 2 passes at 5500, 2 at 5600, 2 at 5700...ect ect... look at the mph go up and ET go down, when ET starts taking a crap your shifting too late. This has always worked for me. Besides that drive the hell out of the car and you should "feel" when your pushing too far. Better to shift early then late
 

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Posted by DropTopFox (Member # 1689) on :
 
Yeah only problem is without a roll bar, retractible seat belts, a tiny oil leak, and the battery not being held down I won't pass tech. I need to get a lot of things done before this car sees the track. However when I'm practicing around here where should I learn to shift at? I know someone has to know the perscribed shift point for the E-cam.
 

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Posted by 98slowhoe (Member # 895) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by DropTopFox:
Yeah only problem is without a roll bar, retractible seat belts, a tiny oil leak, and the battery not being held down I won't pass tech. I need to get a lot of things done before this car sees the track. However when I'm practicing around here where should I learn to shift at? I know someone has to know the perscribed shift point for the E-cam.

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Originally posted by jayl:
no its 13.99 and faster for a rollbar in verts!

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Originally posted by jayl:
no haha! sucks ass!! its not enforced that hard when running high 13s or so ive seen.........but thats a lot of added weight and cash for a 13 second car!!

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quote:

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Originally posted by KCmustangboy:
make 2 passes at 5500, 2 at 5600, 2 at 5700...ect ect... look at the mph go up and ET go down, when ET starts taking a crap your shifting too late. This has always worked for me. Besides that drive the hell out of the car and you should "feel" when your pushing too far. Better to shift early then late

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Good advise!..

Are the stock heads ported?...Shift point doesnt really have to do with the cam completely....It also depends on how the rest of the motor flows(heads & intake/exhaust)...

You can also dyno the motor for about $60 and find out specifically where you power band is...
 

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Posted by 66 AC COBRA (Member # 904) on :
 
upper intake is cleaned up, lower intake is ported as much as possible without doing any welding, heads are worked a little on the intake and a little more aggressive on the exhaust

i wouldnt rev to high because the heads have the stock springs and rockers, when i drove the old hatch that motor was in, it liked about 5600-5700, but shifting that high very aggressively and those 275 street tires just melt off, i would say just shit at 5500, learn to drive the car a little better without just killing the tires, then raise the shift points once u have some stickier tires to hold the gears and added torque, have fun and just replace the copper washer on the drain plug and that will sove the leak, thats the only place that oil was comin from when i had it
 

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Posted by mustanggt5091 (Member # 444) on :
 
I would agree with the 5500 shift point for now.
 

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Posted by Yellow94GT (Member # 431) on :
 
1-2 5800, 2-3 5600, 3-4 5400
 

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Posted by Bill/APEX Motorsports (Member # 636) on :
 
Why not bring it down and dyno it on our Dynojet? You'll get a printout that will show you exactly where your peak hp and torque are, as well as your air/fuel ratio. Then you'll know where you should be shifting, no guesses! Give me a call if you'd like to schedule something.

 

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Posted by DropTopFox (Member # 1689) on :
 
Ok, I think I'll just leave it at 5500 for now. Yeah I have to have a roll bar and trust me the car is that fast where I think I could get lucky and run a mid 13 and if I let Drew take a stab at it possible low 13's. Thanks for the offer Bill, it's gonna be a little while longer before I throw it on the dyno. I still want to get pullies and an electric fan and a 76mm Pro-m then I'm going to have Byron chip it and tune it either at your place or at Mustang Ranch depending on when I'm availible to do so. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Posted by 1 FLy.. (Member # 2425) on :
 
did he sell it to you with the charger?
 

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Posted by DropTopFox (Member # 1689) on :
 
No he took it off and gave it to Fasterdamnit
 

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