This is topic NHRA rule re: batteries? in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by Bill/APEX Motorsports (Member # 636) on :
 
I scoured the NHRA website but couldn't find the answer, so I'm asking you guys this question:
I have a customer who wants to go drag racing, and we're relocating his battery to the trunk. We're going to use a Reactor battery, which is non-spillable and, by design, cannot explode. Does it still need to go in an NHRA-approved battery box? We'll also be using the battery mount kit to mount it to the floor of the trunk.
You can see the battery and mount here:Reactor Batteries

Thanks, guys!
 
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
I believe the gel batteries are only exempt from the vent tube regulation. Everything else still applies:

quote:


8.1 BATTERY

Batteries must be securely mounted, may not be located in driver compartment. See General Regulations 8.1.

8.3 MASTER CUTOFF

Mandatory on any car with a battery running 9.99 (*6.39) or quicker, or any car exceeding 135 mph (217.2 km/h) or on any car where the battery is relocated into the trunk area. See General Regulations 8.4.

8.1 BATTERIES

All batteries must be securely mounted and may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is re-located in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch (.6 mm) or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum, or FIA accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery, and must be vented outside of body. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds (68 kg) combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements) is permitted. Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Hold-down bolts must be minimum 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) if battery is relocated from stock and other than stock hold-downs are used ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.).

8.4 MASTER CUTOFF

Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white- edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters.


Basicly, for a hatchback you have to:

A) put it in a sealed box of the proper thickness

B) Wire it so the shut off switch will kill the car when fliped while the engine is running.

[ March 04, 2003, 01:41 PM: Message edited by: st5150 ]
 
Posted by shade-tree (Member # 298) on :
 
you need a box, remember to wire it so that the alternator gets cut from the 'kill' switch as well.
 
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
I'm sure Bill knows this, but here is good kill switch info for the rest of our readers:

http://buffhomer.corral.net/custom.html

Even more information straight from the NHRA's website:

quote:
Q. I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?

A. Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.

http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html

[ March 04, 2003, 04:54 PM: Message edited by: st5150 ]
 
Posted by cobraman_1994 (Member # 467) on :
 
what causes the battery to explode? [Confused]
 
Posted by st5150 (Member # 51) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by cobraman_1994:
what causes the battery to explode? [Confused]

Short circuit or over charging for starters.

[ March 04, 2003, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: st5150 ]
 
Posted by cobraman_1994 (Member # 467) on :
 
thanks, i think ill avoid both of those [Razz]
 
Posted by rob (Member # 50) on :
 
Hydrogen gas
 
Posted by Chris M. (Member # 1708) on :
 
dynomite
 
Posted by Bill/APEX Motorsports (Member # 636) on :
 
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, guys! I appreciate the help.
 




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