This is topic stupid NX kit install question regarding fuel source 'teeing' in forum Tech Talk at Northern California Ford Owners .
To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://californiafords.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002258
Posted by shade-tree (Member # 298) on
:
OK, I've been over this topic a few times in my head already, but the NX install looks like it wants me to use a valve core removal tool on the factory schrader valve on the fuel rail on the passenger side.
That's fine, but my question is... is this the ideal way to do it? I ran it by one of my chevy friends (!) and he suggested a stand alone fuel cell (3 gallon) with an in-line pump going to the fuel solenoid. Now this seems weird to me because I'm afraid of screwing up the air/fuel/nitrous ratio because if you 'tee' off the fuel rail, the in-tank pump (mine is a 255 lph 'high pressure' unit) will be giving near identical pressures to the fuel rail and the fuel solenoid/jet.
Actually if I think about it, the schrader valve is pre-fuel regulator so it's seeing unregulated pressure from the pump, and the fuel rail sees something entirely different.
Does this matter? Does the pressure the fuel solenoid receives matter? Does the fuel solenoid function as some kind of internally regulated device? So that say if I have an 88 lph in tank pump, or a 155 or 255 the fuel solenoid delivers the same amount of fuel (given the same jet).
thanks for any help
Posted by jmcclesk (Member # 1355) on
:
Shade call me. it would take me too long to type. t-off the valve is the correct way
Posted by Milesblown03 (Member # 27) on
:
The shrader valve is not pre regulator. The pressure at the schrader valve will be the same as the pressure at the injectors, hence the reason for the schrader( to check fuel pressure!) Now thats i think about it, the entire fuel system from the pump, to the regulator, to the fuel rail, willl all have the same pressure. The regulator will just dump off excess pressure (from the whole system) and dump it back in the tank. So, teeing into the fuel rail would seem ideal. I guess you could go crazy and add a seperate fuel cell, with its own pump,etc, but why? To much extra work for too little gain. As long as the in tank pump will support it, T-it and forget it!!
Posted by Pro50Eric (Member # 2065) on
:
Miles made good points and he was absolutely correct in what he said. All it's going to do is knock off the excess pressure. I don't think you would need to full with a separate fuel cell. Good luck with it.
Posted by Mr Paint Job (Member # 1708) on
:
I don’t know shit about nitrous but this is what i think i know.
If you run a really high fuel pressure (like 40+) then you'll need to use TINY fuel jets. So tiny that there could be a problem with little crap like dirt plugging them. You also have to run the same octane gas that you have in your tank.
If you put a cell and a pump for just nitrous and run the pump at 7-10 psi or whatever it calls for then you can use bigger jets for the same amount of fuel. You can also run a higher octane when injecting the nitrous which lets you run more timing.
From what I’ve heard the recommended jets for fuel and nitrous have to be at a certain psi and I’ve also heard they give you jetting for both carb pumps (7-10 psi) and efi pumps (40-55 psi).
Now like i said at the beginning, i don’t know shit about nitrous, what i just told you was stuff that I’ve HEARD, not facts, so unless someone backs me up on this info... ignore it.
Posted by shade-tree (Member # 298) on
:
sounds good, thanks Chris I mean Paint job
I'm sourcing a valve-core removal tool and will be having at it. The rest of the kit is totally installed.
If you guys don't have a cool switch plate yet, look into the one AFM sells. room four 4 switches (heater, purge, remote opener, electric fan). NICE! All in the ashtray.
Posted by Mr Paint Job (Member # 1708) on
:
wish i could give you some actual facts, i've never really researched nitrous because i like blowers much more. in a year or so (or whenever money lets me) i'll probably put a 75-100 shot on my car and i plan on running a second tank and pump just so i can use a higher octane fuel than the crappy 91 in my gas tank.
that is why i'd prefer doing it that way.
Posted by AaronC (Member # 86) on
:
The NX kit should work VERY well for you. I ran one for almost 1.5 years and it put up solid #'s. Expect 8 MPH from your 75 shot. 1050 psi in the bottle and regular timing was how I ran it for the 75 shot. I have an extra NX bottle with gauge if you need another bottle. It's full too.
Posted by shade-tree (Member # 298) on
:
heh, I refuse to buy anything from you Aaron. You need it for your stang
Posted by sheckler (Member # 2082) on
:
ask jared (91sleeper).....hes good with No2
Posted by Mr Paint Job (Member # 1708) on
:
but how is he with n2o?
Posted by 5.8L 2be (Member # 786) on
:
*cough* Someone I know *cough* had a FP gauge in his schrader(sp) valve on the fuel rail when he went to install the fuel line. He went down to monument got a T fitting so the bottom piece that connected the FP gauge and the fuel rail screwed into the bottom of the T fitting, the fitting for the fuel line screwed into the side of the T, and the gauge screwed into the top, pretty simple and it only cost $5. Let me know if you need any help, this was prbably the easiest part for me, I mean him, my friend.
Posted by on
:
Fueled by Ford Mustang Owners
on CaliforniaFords.com