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»	Northern California Ford Owners » Automotive » Tech Talk » Car dies on start up

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Topic: Car dies on start up

j0eyabs
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Member # 1026

posted

I have a 90 5.0 with an AOD transmission. Lately when i start my car it will usually die right away unless i rev the engine a little. Once I start moving the car is fine it only dies when i first start it up for some reason. does anyone know what it could be
thanks

Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002 | :

JoeT
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Member # 298

posted

battery ground? (verify the condition of that zero gauge battery cable)

Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001 | :

j0eyabs
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Member # 1026

posted

so the battery ground could cause the car engine to doe like that cause my stereo still plays when it dies.

Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002 | :

JoeT
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Member # 298

posted

the draw of your motor is much greater than the stereo. it could still be the ground, aka, a flaky ground.

Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001 | :

j0eyabs
¯
Member # 1026

posted

ok ill try that thanks

Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002 | :

Stimson
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Member # 51

posted

I've had a few things cause this:

-improperly set idle screw

-TPS sensor way off

-bad MAF

Try checking those things out in order. Pulling the codes from the EEC may also give you more clues.

Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000 | :

j0eyabs
¯
Member # 1026

posted

ok ill do that, if its the MAF i guess ill just get a C&L 76MM, i was gonna but it later but this may be the exucse i need to get it sooner
thanks for your help

Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002 | :

Stimson
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Member # 51

posted

quote:
Originally posted by j0eyabs:
ok ill do that, if its the MAF i guess ill just get a C&L 76MM, i was gonna but it later but this may be the exucse i need to get it sooner
thanks for your help

Well its the electronics on the MAF that go bad and C&L's reuse the factory electronics so you have nothing to gain by putting potentially bad MAF electronics in a C&L housing. Try the simple stuff first; tighten the idle screw about a turn, reset the TPS to about 0.8 volts and reset the computer.

Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000 | :

j0eyabs
¯
Member # 1026

posted

i left the battery unplugged for a day and when it was re connected it still does the same thing

Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002 | :

j0eyabs
¯
Member # 1026

posted

i replaced my tps and battery ground and car still does same thing, how do i reset the tps back to .8 volts

Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002 | :

Stimson
_
Member # 51

posted

A bad ground or bad TPS really won't cause this problem. Scroll up, more suggestions were given that you should look into.

Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000 | :

j0eyabs
¯
Member # 1026

posted

how do i set the TPS sensor on a 5.0

Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002 | :

Stimson
_
Member # 51

posted

Put the key in the ON position and measure the voltage across the green and black wires on the TPS. Aim for something in the 0.8X volt range.

Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000 | :

j0eyabs
¯
Member # 1026

posted

i still dont get how u adjust it

Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002 | :

Stimson
_
Member # 51

posted

Sorry, this link should explain things better:

http://www.promustangs.com/tps.html

Posts: 2373 | Registered: Jun 2000 | :

JoeT
¯
Member # 298

posted

not saying this is the case with your car, but I had a rat-chewed (parked outside) AOD blazer. Started fine, but when I shifted to 'D' from 'P', the car would die, immediately.

was a bad battery ground.

Posts: 6785 | From: San Jose | Registered: Jun 2001 | :

j0eyabs
¯
Member # 1026

posted

no that aint it. i start my car it dies, then i crank it again it dies, then i crank it a third time and car stays on and runs perfect. only does this dying thing on start up once car is going its fine and wont do it again till i turn off the car and try and restart it. thanks for your input though

Posts: 767 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2002 | :

66 InjectedCobra
¯
Member # 819

posted

My car does the same exact shit. I have been trying to fix it for months. I still need to get a new coolant temp sensor. That could be the problem. I did all the free shit that was explained to you and nothing changed.
My best advice from a ford mechanic was to; go to ford and purchase a spacer that goes between the air bypass valve. This spacer has 2 screws that allow air in without the bypass valve having to open a ton. You set these screws to your best liking for idle smoothness. This part comes with 2 gaskets and 2 longer bolts. This part was never put on a car from the factory but you can buy it from Ford dealers. Ford makes them cause there is a glitch in the ford 5.0 shit some times"over time". What happens is the throttle body gets full of shit and dirt, then causes idle problems like this. This is fords lil way of fixing a poor idle circuit design. Hope that helps you out alil more. I love helping out other ford fans...Mike [worship]