I didnt see any other design changes to the exhaust setup that would cause a check engine light...hopefully its not something else with the motor.
Also, is there a way I can diagnose the problem using the check engine codes? Im a bit unfamiliar with the procedure.
Thanks a ton!
Jeff
[ February 07, 2002: Message edited by: TORQUEPIMP ]
I have been told that mileliminators will solve the problem, as they are designed to fool the computer into thinking you still have forward cat's. I think whats happening is that since the removal of the forward cat's, the O2 sensors are giving the computer a reading far enough out of range that the check engine light comes on.
Im gonna check out http://www.mileliminators.com and see what info they have.
Thanks!
Jeff
quote:
Originally posted by jsmaze:
I didn't touch heads of the O2 sensors but I didnt have a torque wrench that would fit under there. I think they are the torque spec is 18 or so, so I took my best guess. I doubt that fitting is the problem, but you never know.I have been told that mileliminators will solve the problem, as they are designed to fool the computer into thinking you still have forward cat's. I think whats happening is that since the removal of the forward cat's, the O2 sensors are giving the computer a reading far enough out of range that the check engine light comes on.
Im gonna check out http://www.mileliminators.com and see what info they have.
Thanks!
Jeff
wholy cow i swear i though i put mil eliminators in my post.. but that i am sure that is your problem.
The check engine light comes on after about 10 miles of driving. Is that about the time that it takes for the sensors to heat up properly?
I know there are guys out there with fox's and o/r h-pipes
Sounds like you do have some O2 sensor codes going by how the check engine light is turning on. It only takes them a minute to warm up. They're self heated. If worse comes to worse, AutoZone has the best price on new ones.
I imagine that doing a KOER test would result in one of the EGO codes coming up. It will probably tell me its running rich because since I just tightened up the header flange I might have a bit of an exhaust leak.
The check engine light comes on after about 10 mins or 10 miles of driving, like clockwork.
The 91's and 88's probably had the same stock exhaust, but if not, my stock h-pipe has 4 cats. The O2 sensors are located after the first set of cats.
I have flowmasters on right now, they were welded in when I bought the car.
I am fairly certain there are multiple exhaust leaks and am positive theres at least one large one (I need to get the smog pump tube welded up). It may be the lack of backpressure...however I dont know how the computer would read that information. Ive tried to fix the leaks but argh...I hate exhaust fittings...
I'll drop it by a local shop (that will hopefully work on an illegal exhaust and see if they can take care of the leaks.
Have you pulled the codes from the computer yet?
I didnt use gaskets because I had changed my headers a few times on my old mustang (86 GT) and hadnt had any problems with leaks. If a shop wont touch it then its time to get a set of gaskets I spose.
but like i said if you want me to scann it i can.
im located in san jose ca
quote:
Originally posted by jsmaze:
I havent had a chance to sit down and pull the codes. I'll have to use the check engine light method but it doesnt look very complicated.I didnt use gaskets because I had changed my headers a few times on my old mustang (86 GT) and hadnt had any problems with leaks. If a shop wont touch it then its time to get a set of gaskets I spose.
You should get some copper gaskets so that you can take the headers on and off and use the same gaskets without having to keep replacing them.