.
South Side upper and lower control arms
lakewoods 30/70 for the front
MM cast and camber plats and there sub frame connectors
and torq box reenforce kit
Iam also goin to relocate the battery to the back and buy a dual oil filter kit
I was thinking about a oil cooler kit but have not made up my mind if its worth the money to buy one
what do you guys think
is there a brand you guys think maybe works better then what i have picked
Thanks
but mostly ill be runing drags but would like to run et streets or slicks at the track
quote:
Originally posted by RiddlerGT:
how much does an oil cooler cost? we put one on my buddies last car was really easy.. Im sure they are a great benifit to the Blower not letting it get so hot
well ive seen it for like 150 for the kit my problem would be were to place it at since i have a air to air intercooler in the front of my raidiator\
but iam sure ill would think of some thinking
Battery in the trunk and welding up the seams on your tourqe boxes are great ideas.
.If you're gonna be in the city one day drop me an e-mail and we'll hook-up and I'll show u what I mean .
quote:
Originally posted by RiddlerGT:
how much does an oil cooler cost? we put one on my buddies last car was really easy.. Im sure they are a great benifit to the Blower not letting it get so hot
Do you have one on your lighting? this is a good idea for chargers. but where to mount on stangs is an issue.
[ January 23, 2002: Message edited by: Roush2960 ]
quote:
Originally posted by yesIdid:
Go Hotchkis when u buy c/c plates. They're more solid and definitely look better under the hood
Really...?! Explain how the Hotchkis C/C plates with Poly bushings are more solid than the MM plates that have spherical bearings. You would tend to think that the poly bushings would deflect under severe side loading of the strut and change the geometry of the suspension. The spherical bearing, on the other hand, will not give and suspension geometry will remain constant.
As far as the hardware itself, both are made from thick plates and are similar, except that the MM plates require you to drill an extra mounting hole in the strut tower for a fourth mounting bolt.
-joe
quote:
Originally posted by TRY2PAZ:
Sounds good. Ever thought about a Canton oil pan?
I did not now they made one for the 4.6l
do you now the part number I would be willing to buy one an put it on
do you also now about how much it cosr
thanks
quote:
Originally posted by shade-tree:
I currently run southside lowers. While they are great for the strip I do not recommend them for a daily driver. The snapping, popping, creaking/etc. and harsh ride get OLD. In fact, I'll be taking mine out this year. Probably for HPM mega-bite jr's, or MM lowers. haven't decided. Definitely something with polyurethane.
hmmm well that sounds cool my stang is not my daily driver
So you do recomend the SMM lower control arms for the track and street racing
did you notice a drop on you ET tims with them
thanks
Ive never been happier with the WOLFE pieces I bought. Excellent craftsmanship and well we all know what Guthridge and Spetter are doing on them..
weld up the control arm mounts
get some ET streets or ET drags
remove the front sway bar
Run this combo and use the money you would have spent on control arms or drag shocks to replace your axels and carrier with a 31 spline unit when they break.
quote:
Originally posted by 99gt-UJSTLST:I did not now they made one for the 4.6l
do you now the part number I would be willing to buy one an put it on
do you also now about how much it cosr
thanks
Email wikd281 for the price and parts. He just put one on his car.
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
99gt-UJSTLST- Here is the best bang for the buck suspension setup for you....
weld up the control arm mountsget some ET streets or ET drags
remove the front sway bar
Run this combo and use the money you would have spent on control arms or drag shocks to replace your axels and carrier with a 31 spline unit when they break.
about how much will that cost for the axl and spline unit
iam getting the boxes welded on already
iam planning on rung drag radials for now but will go with slicks once i run 11's on drags
thanks for the advice
quote:
Originally posted by 99gt-UJSTLST:about how much will that cost for the axl and spline unit
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?incatuid=115&fcmd=cat
quote:
Originally posted by 99gt-UJSTLST:hmmm well that sounds cool my stang is not my daily driver
So you do recomend the SMM lower control arms for the track and street racing
did you notice a drop on you ET tims with themthanks
nah, based on my experience with how the SSM lower control arms beats the hell out of your torque boxes, I'd avoid them myself.
I believe they are worth a solid tenth in the 60' over stock LCA's, and they stabalize the launch with less of a tendency to 'lift' the front end of the car. (I know, you might prefer the wheelie).
quote:
Originally posted by gr40coupe:
Hey the best suspension to go with is griggs well wirth it they make the best parts they make a full kit called the gr40
WWW.GRIGGSRACING.COM
I think he is looking for more of a drag racing setup purely based on what his initial plans are and what all other posts have discussed. With that said, comments by them like this:
http://www.griggsracing.com/gr40rear.html
"Our urethane lower control arm bushings help insure the elimination of wheel hop when the quad-shocks and upper control arms are removed. Typical 60 ft. time reduction on radials is .3 to .6 seconds."
Make me question if they've ever been down the drag strip.
quote:
Originally posted by st5150:
99gt-UJSTLST- Here is the best bang for the buck suspension setup for you....
weld up the control arm mountsget some ET streets or ET drags
remove the front sway bar
Run this combo and use the money you would have spent on control arms or drag shocks to replace your axels and carrier with a 31 spline unit when they break.
hey whats involved in welding the torq boxes
do i have to remove the back seat and put a plate also or will just welding up the torq boxes to the body frame be enough
Anyways, a cheap solution is to just do the 'lower' frame mount to the LCA. Have a competent welder 'seal' the torque box shut along the side. The other attachment point is best reached through the back seat and involves some sheetmetal cutting.
I'd do the lower attachment point first. How strongly will you be hitting the tires? 1.8x? 1.6x? 1.5x? You may just want to bite the bullit and have someone install the Wyld Ride Battle Boxes, or equivalents. Figure $200 for the sheetmetal (lol!) and $200+ for the install. This is the LCA's only. The upper arm isn't necessary on a drag racer. But if you're into da TwisTEEZ do the uppers at the same time.
quote:
Originally posted by shade-tree:
The proper way to do the torque boxes involves pulling the rear seats/carpet/pad out. Some of us are fortunate enough to always have their car like that, lol.Anyways, a cheap solution is to just do the 'lower' frame mount to the LCA. Have a competent welder 'seal' the torque box shut along the side. The other attachment point is best reached through the back seat and involves some sheetmetal cutting.
I'd do the lower attachment point first. How strongly will you be hitting the tires? 1.8x? 1.6x? 1.5x? You may just want to bite the bullit and have someone install the Wyld Ride Battle Boxes, or equivalents. Figure $200 for the sheetmetal (lol!) and $200+ for the install. This is the LCA's only. The upper arm isn't necessary on a drag racer. But if you're into da TwisTEEZ do the uppers at the same time.
thanks
iam goin to buy the lower control arm KIT and have it welded on