This is topic 351 Cleveland guru need advice. in forum General Talk at Northern California Ford Owners .
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Posted by 2BlueGeeTees (Member # 4702) on
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I know there was a 351C specialist on this forum a while back but don't remember who. The question I have is this. I pulled my intake to replace it with a torker intake. I was certain the car had 4V open chamber heads. To my surprise when I was able to see the casting number the heads are D1VE-GA heads. 4V 62.8 cc closed chamber 2.19/1.71 heads. Is it worth machining these for screw in studs and replacing with good valves etc. they have some nice port work on the intake side. Not opened up too much but cleaned up nicely. I plan on doing a mild street strip build with this thing. No more than 450-500 hp streetable.
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on
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i would.
Posted by 2BlueGeeTees (Member # 4702) on
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Any suggestions on which vales locks and retainers to use and a spring to handle a .600 inch lift?
Posted by Duncan Motors (Member # 7045) on
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i used crower, but comp cam, edelbrock,i mean shoot as long as u stick with a major name things are gd. here goes the problems with clevelands, the 4 barrel heads scream top end all day, supposedly they have no low end but i beg to differ, or at least there no slouch down low, but there oiling system sucks balls, it oils the lifters first, then the lower end, kinda like a big block chevy, so by the time u get it all together and start ripping 5 thousand plus u start starving the lower crank an rod bearings, they dont last, makes tons of power but on borrowed time, i know how to correct this, especially if your getting 600 lift stuff lets be real u plan on running above 5 grand, forget a hydraulic lifter, an solids need adjusting a bit on these motors, and with there canted valves with that lift a stud girdle is recommend on these motors, now with all that is why i recommend a solid roller set up. i went this whole route before i got what i have now, a solid running 8 grand motor that will l last, 500 to 600 hp no problem. awesome motors but either u build it to putt around the streets where u are aware of the lower end bearings or u go for the gusto and fix and reroute the oiling channels and just go solid roller. these motors are freaking awesome in my book but there is no half stepping. if u wana fix the oil stuff so it actual last about 250 in parts and 400 in labor i can fix it for u, but block must be bare. if your going solid u can put restrictions in the proper places to cut down the oil which well also increase the volume to the lower end. and then u can build it to the hilt, how bout this, i came home from the city, San Francisco and made it home to vallejo, in under 15 minute to the vallejo toll plaza, not sure of mile per hour cause it had been buried on san francisco brige. but my tack seen no lower than 6500 not once, more like between 7000 and 8000 the whole way, did that a couple times. on a recent tear down the bearing still looked like they where new.
if u do not fix the bearing oiling problem u will never get away with that at all.
Posted by 70mach351 (Member # 7528) on
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ive had a few clevelands too, and looking into a few clevor builds for my mach 1. I wouldnt dump too much money into the heads, since they have all sorts of aluminum ones for sale now. I have two cars with 70 4v heads on them. Good luck with the build
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