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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
To H/C/I my hatch myself. Any tips or special tools I might need? I have a torque wrenches (3/8"&1/2") already. Is it pretty much straight forward? How can I degree the cam right? Need as much info as possible. Thanks in advance

BTW I'm gathering as much info as I can kuz imma attempt this next week
 

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Posted by venomous99 (Member # 1917) on :
 
Believe it or not I was able to procure the entire tool set for an hci swap by visiting dollar tree....
 

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Posted by Fast92lxcoupe (Member # 8221) on :
 
I thought you were going to say suicide
 

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Posted by Slowback67 (Member # 6348) on :
 
U should put this it tec talk playa.

Do you have new head bolts/studs?
Do you have all your gaskets?
Do you know of your have the correct length pushrods?
Do you know how to put your number one piston to TDC?
* I like to use the right stuff gasket maker for the intake.... I think you will need a long screwdriver to get tension back on the belt. I don't own a 5.0 so I don't know if that's necessary or not.
Good luck with the swap.
 

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Posted by nasty93 (Member # 8935) on :
 
pretty straight forward..ive done a few now.pretty rewarding when u get it done yourself.good to have a good manual for help.also all gaskets and fluids and fuel line removal kit...and be patient.also a clean work bench or table to spread your tools and parts on.
 

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Posted by 2T0NE (Member # 4216) on :
 
do it,its super easy
 

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Posted by Venomousnotch (Member # 8695) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Fast92lxcoupe:
I thought you were going to say suicide

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Lmao...
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
So I only need basic tools, torque wrench, N fuel line removal kit?
 

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Posted by 89notchkid (Member # 10698) on :
 
The most special tool needed is the torque wrench make sure you get some arp head stud bolts I think there worth it
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 89notchkid:
The most special tool needed is the torque wrench make sure you get some arp head stud bolts I think there worth it

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quote:

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Originally posted by 89notchkid:
I did it even with gt40s

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quote:

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Originally posted by v-town coupe:
nobody in the car club can lend you a hand?

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quote:

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Originally posted by v-town coupe:
nobody in the car club can lend you a hand?

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quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:

quote:

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Originally posted by v-town coupe:
nobody in the car club can lend you a hand?

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Yeah they all would but I'm really trying to accomplish this myself kuz I wanna be able to say I built my motor myself, give me a sense of accomplishment. See but I wouldn't mind some cam install help lol

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It is ALWAYS better with friends around, regardless.
 

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Posted by wilit (Member # 3367) on :
 
Are planning on pulling the engine out or doing it with it installed in the car? You can do a cam swap with the engine in the car, but it's a HUGE pain in the ass. Especially if you want to degree the cam, I would pull the engine. It will make it much easier, especially since you have zero experience and no tools.
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
I'm planning on doing it while motor is in the car pulling out the radiator, e-fan, N even front bumper cover if I need to help with cam install.

BTW I have a bunch of tools, could also get more if I need to.

[ May 01, 2012, 10:45 PM: Message edited by: NEIGHT ]
 

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Posted by stock fox (Member # 9211) on :
 
Lmk how it turns out!, ive been wanting to tear my engine down and build it up
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
Who do you guys recomend for gaskets? Gonna get the specific ones for my intake off their website but just don't know which ones for the rest of the motor. Thinking about Fel Pro.

N Stock Fox yeah I'll be shure to post up a vid of the idle

[ May 01, 2012, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: NEIGHT ]
 

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Posted by sneakyfox90 (Member # 9379) on :
 
Thats wasup u shouldnt have any issues my advice is be patient while ur doing it, take ur time and stay as organized as u can

[ May 01, 2012, 10:57 PM: Message edited by: sneakyfox90 ]
 

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Posted by 90GT510 (Member # 9199) on :
 
Do everything yourself as long as its within your means. Just try not to lose a finger
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
Yeah imma go buy a shitload of sandwich bags N label them so I know what bolts go where N gonna take piks throughout the whole thing. LOL on the finger comment I already got shit about that from two people on facebook, it happened because I was getting impatient with a simple task so I started doing shit fast N almost lost a finger. Learned my lesson for shure plus I wanna do it right so imma take my time putting it together.
 

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Posted by 2T0NE (Member # 4216) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Yeah imma go buy a shitload of sandwich bags N label them so I know what bolts go where N gonna take piks throughout the whole thing. LOL on the finger comment I already got shit about that from two people on facebook, it happened because I was getting impatient with a simple task so I started doing shit fast N almost lost a finger. Learned my lesson for shure plus I wanna do it right so imma take my time putting it together.

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quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:

quote:

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Originally posted by 89notchkid:
I did it even with gt40s

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What pushrod length did you use for those?

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quote:

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Originally posted by 2T0NE:

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Yeah imma go buy a shitload of sandwich bags N label them so I know what bolts go where N gonna take piks throughout the whole thing. LOL on the finger comment I already got shit about that from two people on facebook, it happened because I was getting impatient with a simple task so I started doing shit fast N almost lost a finger. Learned my lesson for shure plus I wanna do it right so imma take my time putting it together.

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excatly neight sandwich bags label everything and get all your torque specs written down ,if you need help lmk

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Yeah I got 98Roush's kuzzin getting me all the torque specs kuz he has access to some shit.
 

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Posted by JZTRK (Member # 7641) on :
 
I only use use FELPRO part # 1011-1 for head gaskets

and you need TEN fingers not nine and a half for the swapp

P.S how it the healing coming along

[ May 02, 2012, 12:18 AM: Message edited by: JZTRK ]
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
Fel pro it is. Lol it's alright I'm pretty shure I can make it work. It's healing doesn't throb like a mofo all day no more, but it is still wide open for the most part.
 

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Posted by ISP89LX (Member # 8949) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:

quote:

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Originally posted by 2T0NE:

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Yeah imma go buy a shitload of sandwich bags N label them so I know what bolts go where N gonna take piks throughout the whole thing. LOL on the finger comment I already got shit about that from two people on facebook, it happened because I was getting impatient with a simple task so I started doing shit fast N almost lost a finger. Learned my lesson for shure plus I wanna do it right so imma take my time putting it together.

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excatly neight sandwich bags label everything and get all your torque specs written down ,if you need help lmk

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Yeah I got 98Roush's kuzzin getting me all the torque specs kuz he has access to some shit.

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5.0L V8 1994-2000 specs
Component Torque
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 40-45 ft. lbs.
Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolts 108-144 inch lbs.
Crankshaft Pulley-to-Vibration Damper Bolts 35-50 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Head Bolts Step 1 25-35 ft. lbs.
Step 2 45-55 ft. lbs.
Step 3 NOTE
Exhaust Manifold Bolts 26-32 ft. lbs.
Flywheel/Driveplate Mounting Bolts 75-85 ft. lbs.
Front Engine Mounting Bolts 72-98 ft. lbs.
Intake Manifold Bolts Step 1 96 inch lbs.
Step 2 16 ft. lbs.
Step 3 23-25 ft. lbs.
Main Bearing Cap Bolts 60-70 ft. lbs.
Oil Filter Insert-to-Engine Adapter Bolt 20-30 ft. lbs.
Oil Pan Mounting Bolts 110-144 inch lbs.
Oil Pick-up Tube-to-Main Bearing Cap Nut 22-32 ft. lbs.
Oil Pick-up Tube-to-Oil Pump Bolts 12-18 ft. lbs.
Oil Pump Mounting Bolts 22-32 ft. lbs.
Rocker Arm Fulcrum Bolts 18-25 ft. lbs.
Rod Bearing Cap Nuts 19-24 ft. lbs.
Thermostat Housing-to-Engine Bolts 12-18 ft. lbs.
Timing Chain Cover Bolts 12-18 ft. lbs.
Water Pump Bolts 15-21 ft. lbs.
Water Pump Pulley-to-Water Pump Bolts/Nuts 15-21 ft. lbs

Still double check everything and make sure everything is accurate but i got these torque specs from my cousin
 

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Posted by phil a (Member # 6951) on :
 
Are you planning on degreeing the cam? If you're doing dot-to-dot, just pull the radiator and put it in there, no use pulling the whole damn thing out if it's a straight-forward deal. you're young, won't hurt your back too bad.

labeling stuff works OK, picture's worth 1000 words though, so if it's your first time, wouldn't kill you to have a buddy over your shoulder with a digital cam, taking pics of each step. do it enough times, and you'll recognize where each nut/bolt goes. although that is a pretty depressing thought.

regardless, it's intimidating for the first time, but relatively straight-forward. if you got a buddy who's been through it once or twice, why not have him lookin over your shoulder
 

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Posted by Greasy (Member # 5258) on :
 
You'll also need a balancer remover. Do a lot of research on degreeing a cam, there are tutorials on YouTube about it. The front bumper cover won't have to come off for cam removal or install, just be careful not to nick your cam bearings up. Head gaskets only go on one way, they'll usually say "front" which faces up. When installing the head bolts put a dab of silicone on all of the lower bolts and a dab of 30W oil on the top bolts. Torquing the head bolts start in the center and work your way out using the proper torque steps.

I also have a tap that I'll run through all the head bolt holes in the block to clean them up for an accurate torque. Other then that it's pretty straight forward, do some research and keep track of everything.
 

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Posted by moeofit32 (Member # 10393) on :
 
hit me if u need help i gotchu... the rite tools make the swap easier
 

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Posted by FordRyderz510 (Member # 6771) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 2T0NE:

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
Yeah imma go buy a shitload of sandwich bags N label them so I know what bolts go where N gonna take piks throughout the whole thing. LOL on the finger comment I already got shit about that from two people on facebook, it happened because I was getting impatient with a simple task so I started doing shit fast N almost lost a finger. Learned my lesson for shure plus I wanna do it right so imma take my time putting it together.

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excatly neight sandwich bags label everything and get all your torque specs written down ,if you need help lmk

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+2 on the bags...just keeping everything organized and ready to put back together will be a way faster and better head-ache free way of figuring what bolts go where. Good luck with it and vids and pics to show thru the process
 

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Posted by 50Reasons (Member # 6452) on :
 
DO NOT RE USE HEAD BOLTS. Just get the nice ones now and you can re use those
 

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Posted by sneakyfox90 (Member # 9379) on :
 
any bolts that you re use clean the threads very well

go over everything 2nd n 3rd time to make sure its tight and torqued to spec

keep the lifter valley coverd as much as possible

black rtv on the lower intake gaskets and u can use the felpro blue rubber end gaskets for the lower intake, on each end put a fat dab of rtv on the corner of the blue gasket and the head.

put a layer of rtv silicone with ur finger around the water ports on the head before laying the gasket down

[ May 02, 2012, 03:10 AM: Message edited by: sneakyfox90 ]
 

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Posted by Secnd2nun64 (Member # 1431) on :
 
Dont use a tap on any threads. Get yourself a thread restorer kit. Sears has a nice set and you'll use it more than you think. It's around $40 and well worth the small investment. It will clean and fix the threads instead of cutting new threads. I used cometic gaskets but the felpro gaskets will be fine too.

Good time to clean up the engine bay. Plenty of room while you have the heads off to degreaser and paint. Just take your time and do it right so you don't have to do it twice.
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
Alright so what can I use to lube up parts? What head bolts do you suggest N where can I get them? I will try to clean up the whole motor as best as I can, but if(most likely)there is carbon on my pistons how can I clean them, or I should leave them alone?

Sorry I might ask a shitload of questions just to get as much info as I can before I attempt this. Plus I'd rather ask this site because fuckers on other sites think everyone was born with all the mechanic knowledge you need so they make smart ass remarks N shit. CAFORDS FTW
 

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Posted by v-town coupe (Member # 2771) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:

quote:

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Originally posted by v-town coupe:
nobody in the car club can lend you a hand?

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Yeah they all would but I'm really trying to accomplish this myself kuz I wanna be able to say I built my motor myself, give me a sense of accomplishment. See but I wouldn't mind some cam install help lol

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quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
So I think I need

-Pullie puller
-balancer remover
-ARP head head bolts
-Fuel line removal kit
-Assembly lube

Anyone where I can get this stuff? Websites maybe?

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quote:

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Originally posted by arodeast408:

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
So I think I need

-Pullie puller
-balancer remover
-ARP head head bolts
-Fuel line removal kit
-Assembly lube

Anyone where I can get this stuff? Websites maybe?

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Kragens for most of the things and arps just online

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quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
So I think I need

-Pullie puller
-balancer remover
-ARP head head bolts
-Fuel line removal kit
-Assembly lube

Anyone where I can get this stuff? Websites maybe?

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quote:

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Originally posted by wilit:

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
So I think I need

-Pullie puller
-balancer remover
-ARP head head bolts
-Fuel line removal kit
-Assembly lube

Anyone where I can get this stuff? Websites maybe?

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You also need:
-Torque wrench (you mentioned you didn't have one)
-Complete gasket kit (you will essentially replace almost every gasket in the engine doing a head swap and cam swap)
-Blue Loctite
-RTV sealant
-Oil (when you pull the intake and heads, it's hard to drain 100% of the coolant out and some gets into the oil, so you need to change it)
-Coolant
-Haynes repair manual (don't rely on a message forum to do something as complex as this. You should really have one if you plan on working on any car yourself anyway)
-Timing chain (if you're running the original timing chain, it's good insurance to replace it)

If you plan are truly degreeing the cam, you will also need:
-Degree wheel
-Dial indicator & stand
-Piston stop
-Wire coat hanger (to make a degree wheel pointer)

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quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:



Is it hard to upgrade my timing chain?

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quote:

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Originally posted by norcalfiddy:

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:



Is it hard to upgrade my timing chain?

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no, it will be off anyways when you swap the cam out.

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I know but do I have to change out the crank sprocket too when I upgrade the chain?
 

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Posted by Slowback67 (Member # 6348) on :
 
^ When you buy the timing chain, it comes with the chain & gears. You have to line up the dots on the timing chain.

I think while your at the auto parts store, pick up a Chiltons book for your car. They're cheap and will even give you the break down on how to remove and replace parts. I don't think anyone of us that works on cars doesn't have one laying around for there car LOL.
You should ask one of your buddy's if they have one you can at least borrow....... You do know how to read right?
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
I know it comes with the sprckets but do I need a special tool to install or take it off?

Are the edelbrock double roller ones good?

[ May 03, 2012, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: NEIGHT ]
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
These the bolts everyone is talking about?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-154-3601/?rtype=10
 

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Posted by wilit (Member # 3367) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
I know it comes with the sprckets but do I need a special tool to install or take it off?

Are the edelbrock double roller ones good?

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quote:

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Originally posted by wilit:

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
I know it comes with the sprckets but do I need a special tool to install or take it off?

Are the edelbrock double roller ones good?

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No tool should be needed. The bottom sprocket should slide right off.

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quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:

quote:

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Originally posted by wilit:

quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
I know it comes with the sprckets but do I need a special tool to install or take it off?

Are the edelbrock double roller ones good?

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No tool should be needed. The bottom sprocket should slide right off.

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Oh ok thanks. This a good chain set?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-Performer-Link-True-Roller-Timing-Chain-Set-Ford-SB-V8-260-289-302-/370603169815?_trksid=m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI% 26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8169405918553570983

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quote:

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Originally posted by NEIGHT:
These the bolts everyone is talking about?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-154-3601/?rtype=10

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quote:

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Originally posted by cemelevu:
After getting it all back together, you should prime the oiling system. You can rent one from auto zone.

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Or you can tape a 1/4" socket to some extensions going to a drill.
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
Gonna order most the stuff today after work. N I'll have to read up on priming an oil system.
 

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Posted by cali95gt (Member # 8940) on :
 
I've wrenched on two head/intake swaps on two different cars and they both came out fine. Only problem on my own car was letting a So-Called friend help me and he put the head gasket on upside down!!!!!!

I've never been to an automotive class in my life, nor worked at any shop. I'm just a mechanical type of guy. If you have a good head on your shoulders then it should be a easy install....


Never touched the cam install on mine, turbo50 did mine... Get out there and do it!!! It looks more difficult than it actually is.

Make sure you use gloves. Lots of latex gloves, bare knuckles are a no-no
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
Yeah I been reading up on cam installs I think I got it down. N yeah I will use latex gloves kuz I plan on taking eating breaks, plus I'm getting a box for free from work.

N yeah I never really did wrenching like I'm about to do this upcoming week but hey I'm no complete idiot. I think I should be good for the most part just need to learn how to do the little stuff that matters.
 

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Posted by Marks93 (Member # 11130) on :
 
I just put in a new motor and rebuilt transmission in my '95 F150 and labelled all my engine compartment connections/vacuum lines with that blue painters tape. Makes them easy to find when hooking them all back up. Just look for blue!!
Sandwich bags is a good idea for bolts too. Helps keep you organized.

Good luck with that.
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
Oh damn thanks for the vacuum line tip, I forgot all about those! That would have been a bitch to find out where those go.
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
I guess I won't be doing this until next weekend kuz I have to wait till the rest of my parts get here on the 14th.
 

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Posted by SSF_5.0_WARRIOR (Member # 10170) on :
 
Great thread guys. Motivates me to go ahead and pull my engine out to work on and clean/paint the engine bay

Goodluck bro!!

[ May 08, 2012, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: SSF_5.0_WARRIOR ]
 

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Posted by NEIGHT (Member # 8741) on :
 
It's alright I guess gives me more time to research up on this stuff even though I got most of it down or atleast I think I do. I hope it isn't all too hard but I'm up for a little challenge.
 

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