This is topic Machining a wheel to change the offset?? Is it possible?? in forum General Talk at Northern California Ford Owners .
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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
Anyone know a good machine shop in the local sac area that can mill or machine the mounting pad of a wheel. Long story short, I need some FR500's with a 30mm offset, but they arent available in silver, so I am thinking about having 6mm-7mm milled off the mounting pad of my 24mm offset FR's to achieve this... Has anyone ever had this done, & is it safe... I could just get 2 new front wheels in black & have them paint matched to my silver rears, but this will cost well over $500 when all said & done, plus they might not be a perfect match & then I will have to get the rears painted too....
Anyone have any info or experience???
Thanks...
[ June 24, 2009, 11:35 PM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
Posted by 93ReefBlue5.0 (Member # 5780) on
:
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Thanks Mike... its For the front... Long story short, the MM k member made the wheels stick out, so i installed 94 spindles (5mm narrower) to bring them back in, but this made the car have ridiculous bumpsteer from the geometry being way off & its really starting to bother me, so I am going to re-install my 03 spindles. But I dont want the wheels sticking out again....
Any recommendations for a good shop?
[ June 23, 2009, 01:07 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
Posted by 93ReefBlue5.0 (Member # 5780) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Thanks Mike... its For the front... Long story short, the MM k member made the wheels stick out, so i installed 94 spindles (5mm narrower) to bring them back in, but this made the car have ridiculous bumpsteer from the geometry being way off & its really starting to bother me, so I am going to re-install my 03 spindles. But I dont want the wheels sticking out again....
Any recommendations for a good shop?
you have adjustable rod ends, why don't you get bump steer measured and set in spec? it would just be the cost of a good alignment instead of machining costs/new wheels.
[ June 23, 2009, 01:23 AM: Message edited by: 93ReefBlue5.0 ]
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Thanks Mike... its For the front... Long story short, the MM k member made the wheels stick out, so i installed 94 spindles (5mm narrower) to bring them back in, but this made the car have ridiculous bumpsteer from the geometry being way off & its really starting to bother me, so I am going to re-install my 03 spindles. But I dont want the wheels sticking out again....
Any recommendations for a good shop?
you have adjustable rod ends, why don't you get bump steer measured and set in spec? it would just be the cost of a good alignment instead of machining costs/new wheels.
Its not just that...
Ford redesigned the spindles when the mod motor was released because, with the lower oil pan of the modular, the steering rack was moved dow an inch... So basically my suspension is all out of wack in the front....
Here is the differences in the spindles... As you can see, there is almost 1" differences in the knuckle position. So combine that with a rack that is an inch lower, & you can see what would pose the problem...
[ June 23, 2009, 01:30 AM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
TTT....
Anybody else have any info or have any shop recommendations??
Posted by 50DADDY (Member # 3076) on
:
Langills on 14th ave.
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by 50DADDY:
Langills on 14th ave.
Thanks Jeff...
Posted by ugotsmoked (Member # 6069) on
:
You don't want them run on a lathe. They need to be set up on a mill. This will give you 100% flatness. It's the same type of machine when they surface heads and blocks.
Posted by Notch1320 (Member # 2647) on
:
Could you split the difference, and remove some off the wheel, and some off the face of the rotor? If there is enough material on the rotor, you may be able to get away with removing at least some material. Of course the wheel studs would have to be removed and replaced, but I would think that would be the easiest, and cheapest. Besides, when it comes time to sell the wheels, they are not an odd set. Just a thought???
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by 93ReefBlue5.0:
dustin, just call around to a few machine shops and see what they think. to me, it seems easy enough to set it up in a lathe and turn it, but im no machinist... is this for the front/rear of the mach?
Thanks Mike... its For the front... Long story short, the MM k member made the wheels stick out, so i installed 94 spindles (5mm narrower) to bring them back in, but this made the car have ridiculous bumpsteer from the geometry being way off & its really starting to bother me, so I am going to re-install my 03 spindles. But I dont want the wheels sticking out again....
Any recommendations for a good shop?
you have adjustable rod ends, why don't you get bump steer measured and set in spec? it would just be the cost of a good alignment instead of machining costs/new wheels.
Its not just that...
Ford redesigned the spindles when the mod motor was released because, with the lower oil pan of the modular, the steering rack was moved dow an inch... So basically my suspension is all out of wack in the front....
Here is the differences in the spindles... As you can see, there is almost 1" differences in the knuckle position. So combine that with a rack that is an inch lower, & you can see what would pose the problem...
afaik, the MM kit should be able to correct that, there's ton's of adjustment in that kit, all you really need to to is set it up so the ti-rods sit level compared to the steering rack when at static ride height.
Posted by Luke87GT (Member # 21) on
:
You know Dustin, thinking about this, the MM kit should correct any problems you may have assuming its in correct adjustment.
You will need quite a bit of spacers, but the drill thru bump steer kit usually offer A LOT of adjustment.
Posted by 65mustang408 (Member # 8681) on
:
crackaway racing engines in elk grove off waterman. nice old man i was gonna do the same thing but im just gonna shorten the axle. they specialize in fords.
Posted by ugotsmoked (Member # 6069) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by 65mustang408:
crackaway racing engines in elk grove off waterman. nice old man i was gonna do the same thing but im just gonna shorten the axle. they specialize in fords.
+1 for crackaway. That dude is cool as hell. go in there with time on your hands, he likes to talk!
Posted by STOCK GT (Member # 5139) on
:
try wheel techniques i think they have/had a shop in sac. I know for sure the one in santa clara ca. is capable of doing it, they machined one of my wheels for me. With pulling off the tire and remounting and balancing they charged me $200.00
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
Thanks for all the replys guys... I do have the bolt through spindle bumpsteer kit, but my car is so low that I already have all the spacers on the bottom. The car handles like crap with its current setup & with a full MM kit, it should be the opposite. I just think that 94/95 spindles arent meant to be ran with the 4.6 K member setup due to the location of the rack. Plus, I have my a arms set in the upper holes on the K member because of my low ride height...
I will look into the shop in Elk Grove that 65Mustang408 recommended.
STOCKGT, you have had this done to some wheels before? how did it work out for you?
Posted by Notch1320 (Member # 2647) on
:
Has Maximum Motorsports offered any assistance? Those guys are usuallywell versed on this from my past experience with them.
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by Notch1320:
Has Maximum Motorsports offered any assistance? Those guys are usuallywell versed on this from my past experience with them.
Yup... Those guys are super cool & always offer lots of advice & assistance. They told me to put the stock spindles back on & realign it. I could also mount the control arms in the lower holes, but this will make them angle upward quite a bit & IMO, would defeat the purpose of having the K member at all... My car is lower than they recommend though for optimum handling, but it should still handle good with it set up right...
Posted by Luke87GT (Member # 21) on
:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
[ June 27, 2009, 09:47 AM: Message edited by: Luke87GT ]
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
So what size would you recommend for the front? 255/40 or a 275/35??
Posted by poisonpony96 (Member # 3942) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Notch1320:
Has Maximum Motorsports offered any assistance? Those guys are usuallywell versed on this from my past experience with them.
Yup... Those guys are super cool & always offer lots of advice & assistance. They told me to put the stock spindles back on & realign it. I could also mount the control arms in the lower holes, but this will make them angle upward quite a bit & IMO, would defeat the purpose of having the K member at all... My car is lower than they recommend though for optimum handling, but it should still handle good with it set up right...
I had the same issue your having when i had my full setup. never had the front end adjusted but i just moved the control arms to the lower holes. The only issue i would say i had was the front end would break loose first. but like i said it was never adjusted at a shop. I think you on the right path though with trying to change offset on front rim and then put wider ones on when at track.
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by poisonpony96:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Notch1320:
Has Maximum Motorsports offered any assistance? Those guys are usuallywell versed on this from my past experience with them.
Yup... Those guys are super cool & always offer lots of advice & assistance. They told me to put the stock spindles back on & realign it. I could also mount the control arms in the lower holes, but this will make them angle upward quite a bit & IMO, would defeat the purpose of having the K member at all... My car is lower than they recommend though for optimum handling, but it should still handle good with it set up right...
I had the same issue your having when i had my full setup. never had the front end adjusted but i just moved the control arms to the lower holes. The only issue i would say i had was the front end would break loose first. but like i said it was never adjusted at a shop. I think you on the right path though with trying to change offset on front rim and then put wider ones on when at track.
Which issue did you have? The wheels sticking out, or bumpsteer issues?
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
So what size would you recommend for the front? 255/40 or a 275/35??
according to:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
the stock size tires are 25.7" diameter
your tires (when new) are 25.3" diameter
so you'd be able to raise the front about a 1/2" with the stock size tires (275/35's will be .1" smaller than a 275/40/17)
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
So what size would you recommend for the front? 255/40 or a 275/35??
according to:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
the stock size tires are 25.7" diameter
your tires (when new) are 25.3" diameter
so you'd be able to raise the front about a 1/2" with the stock size tires (275/35's will be .1" smaller than a 275/40/17)
I currently have 265/35/18's, on an 18X9 wheel.... My stock size was a 245/45/17 on a 17X8 wheel....
[ June 27, 2009, 01:00 PM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
So what size would you recommend for the front? 255/40 or a 275/35??
according to:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
the stock size tires are 25.7" diameter
your tires (when new) are 25.3" diameter
so you'd be able to raise the front about a 1/2" with the stock size tires (275/35's will be .1" smaller than a 275/40/17)
I currently have 265/35/18's, on an 18X9 wheel.... My stock size was a 245/45/17 on a 17X8 wheel....
245/45/17 is the same diameter as 275/40/17, both are stock size of 25.7" diameter ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
Dustin part of the reason that you have to drop it so much to eliminate the fender gap is that your front tires are so short.
I know the 265/35 is a popular front tire choice, but these are big cars (sn95) and I prefer something a little taller which would mean you could have the same fender gap with less lowering
So what size would you recommend for the front? 255/40 or a 275/35??
according to:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
the stock size tires are 25.7" diameter
your tires (when new) are 25.3" diameter
so you'd be able to raise the front about a 1/2" with the stock size tires (275/35's will be .1" smaller than a 275/40/17)
I currently have 265/35/18's, on an 18X9 wheel.... My stock size was a 245/45/17 on a 17X8 wheel....
245/45/17 is the same diameter as 275/40/17, both are stock size of 25.7" diameter
So what front size would you recommend? 255/40/18, 265/35/18, or 275/35/17?
Posted by iceman302 (Member # 7180) on
:
255/25.4 gives you a width of 10.04" then you take that number and multiply by the aspect ratio (.40). That gives you the height of one sidewall = 4.016" x 2 sidewalls = 8.03 and then you add the rim height of 18". The total tire height is 26.03". There are variations by manufacturer but the calculation is almost always spot on.
That would put you .35" taller than a 245/45/17. You will gain about .7" over the 265/35/18 that you're running by going to a 255/40/18. The other important factor when you're trying to close up fender gap is that only half of the total gain in height is on the top side.
[ June 27, 2009, 01:46 PM: Message edited by: iceman302 ]
Posted by poisonpony96 (Member # 3942) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by poisonpony96:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Notch1320:
Has Maximum Motorsports offered any assistance? Those guys are usuallywell versed on this from my past experience with them.
Yup... Those guys are super cool & always offer lots of advice & assistance. They told me to put the stock spindles back on & realign it. I could also mount the control arms in the lower holes, but this will make them angle upward quite a bit & IMO, would defeat the purpose of having the K member at all... My car is lower than they recommend though for optimum handling, but it should still handle good with it set up right...
I had the same issue your having when i had my full setup. never had the front end adjusted but i just moved the control arms to the lower holes. The only issue i would say i had was the front end would break loose first. but like i said it was never adjusted at a shop. I think you on the right path though with trying to change offset on front rim and then put wider ones on when at track.
Which issue did you have? The wheels sticking out, or bumpsteer issues?
I had the issue with the wheels sticking out. I did don't like the look. i had the stock 96 spindles and i had 265/18 up front. once i lowered the mounting point it looked perfect! but does defeat the purpose of having the the upper holes fo the leveling of the a arm to ground.
[ June 27, 2009, 04:07 PM: Message edited by: poisonpony96 ]
Posted by STOCK GT (Member # 5139) on
:
Being that saleen wheels suck mine was a bit bent from saleen so when i took it to wheel techniques, they said that they would have to machine a bit from the backspacing of the wheel to straighten it up. They didn't take off much at all,as a matter of fact i can't even tell a difference, but i know they can do it, just depends on your wheel backspacing on how much they can cut. hopefully this helped .......
Posted by Blind (Member # 3052) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
So what front size would you recommend? 255/40/18, 265/35/18, or 275/35/17?
did you run them through the calculator? The closest tire to stock diameter is the 275/35/18, the 255/40/18's are taller than stock and I think would look goofy with proper sized rear tires.
[ June 28, 2009, 02:05 AM: Message edited by: Blind ]
Posted by ArmyStang (Member # 5141) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by ugotsmoked:
quote:
Originally posted by 65mustang408:
crackaway racing engines in elk grove off waterman. nice old man i was gonna do the same thing but im just gonna shorten the axle. they specialize in fords.
+1 for crackaway. That dude is cool as hell. go in there with time on your hands, he likes to talk!
haha, yeah, that old man has alot on his mind! Ask him about his '67 Mustang and his plans for it. That conversation is bound to lead somewhere interesting.
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
So what front size would you recommend? 255/40/18, 265/35/18, or 275/35/17?
did you run them through the calculator? The closest tire to stock diameter is the 275/35/18, the 255/40/18's are taller than stock and I think would look goofy with proper sized rear tires.
Yeah... I think Im just gonna stick with my 265's because I think they look the best with the 295 rears. Theres something about 275's in the front that looks weird to me???
Posted by Luke87GT (Member # 21) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
So what front size would you recommend? 255/40/18, 265/35/18, or 275/35/17?
did you run them through the calculator? The closest tire to stock diameter is the 275/35/18, the 255/40/18's are taller than stock and I think would look goofy with proper sized rear tires.
Yeah... I think Im just gonna stick with my 265's because I think they look the best with the 295 rears. Theres something about 275's in the front that looks weird to me???
To find the tire height when new take the width and divide by 25.4mm/inch to convert into inches. Than multiply that number by the aspect ratio. Since you have to consider both side of the sidewall, multiply that number by 2 and finally add the rim diameter.
Ie 295/35/18:
295/25.4 = 11.61 inches
(11.61*0.35)*2 = 8.13 inches
8.13 + 18 = 26.13 inches
I personally think the 265-35-18s are way too short for an sn95 with 18s. The 275's look awesome up front if you can get them to fit.
265-35-18: 25.3" -> Too short for an 18" on a big car
275-35-18: 25.58"
295-35-18: 26.13"
305-35-18: 26.41"
[ June 28, 2009, 10:39 AM: Message edited by: Luke87GT ]
Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on
:
quote:
Originally posted by Luke87GT:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
quote:
Originally posted by Blind:
quote:
Originally posted by EPIK:
So what front size would you recommend? 255/40/18, 265/35/18, or 275/35/17?
did you run them through the calculator? The closest tire to stock diameter is the 275/35/18, the 255/40/18's are taller than stock and I think would look goofy with proper sized rear tires.
Yeah... I think Im just gonna stick with my 265's because I think they look the best with the 295 rears. Theres something about 275's in the front that looks weird to me???
To find the tire height when new take the width and divide by 25.4mm/inch to convert into inches. Than multiply that number by the aspect ratio. Since you have to consider both side of the sidewall, multiply that number by 2 and finally add the rim diameter.
Ie 295/35/18:
295/25.4 = 11.61 inches
(11.61*0.35)*2 = 8.13 inches
8.13 + 18 = 26.13 inches
I personally think the 265-35-18s are way too short for an sn95 with 18s. The 275's look awesome up front if you can get them to fit.
265-35-18: 25.3" -> Too short for an 18" on a big car
275-35-18: 25.58"
295-35-18: 26.13"
305-35-18: 26.41"
Mathematically, you are right, but for some reason I prefer the look of a 265 in front??
275/35/18
265/35/18
Posted by Luke87GT (Member # 21) on
:
ya its not a big difference.
I had a 245-40-18 on my smaller fox which is 25.71" and I thought it was spot on.
Posted by QuickSparks (Member # 8826) on
:
To answer the question about whether the mounting pads of the wheel can be machined: I too am considering doing this for my rear wheels, but I have not asked a professional machinist if it is recommended.
As an amateur, I think the limit to the thickness you can remove is presented by the depth of the countersink of the mounting holes. Usually the rest of the mounting pad is hollowed out around the constant-diameter portion of the mounting holes.
Here is a cross section drawing to illustrate my point:
The shaded area represents the maximum thickness that you can remove.
If I were doing it myself, I would find it easier to use a mill instead of a lathe. I would mount the wheel to the table (without the tire) and measure the face runout across the mounting pad in the x and y axes. Then I would use shims under the outboard rim to adjust the runout to less 0.0005" across the mounting pad in x and y axis. I picked that runout because it's the best I could do.
Posted by sac 5.0 (Member # 2980) on
:
have you done this yet?saw a set getting done yesterday.try hansens machine shop its near downtown ford in sac
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