This is topic New dyno tune results... in forum General Talk at Northern California Ford Owners  .


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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on :
 
So I finally got my car dyno tuned after the new mods. The numbers were decent, but I must say I am a bit dissapointed. My car put down 303 rwhp & 320 rwtq with an a/f ratio of 12.4-12.9 across the board. I think the timing is set @ about 19 degrees. This was on a Dyno Dynamics machine....

My mods are...
=Mac LT's
=Mac o/r H pipe
=Bassani catback
=C&L 85mm maf
=3/8" intake spacer

Do these #'s sound about right??
 

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Posted by hidnn.o.s. (Member # 1219) on :
 
A car like yours with your mods I'd "expect" 7-12 more. You're close though
 

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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on :
 
When I got my car dyno'ed with a catted H, catback, stock manifolds, C&L 85mm, & stock tune, it put down 287 rwhp & 292 ft lbs. It was also running extremely lean in the 13.5 range. With a crappy RWTD mail order tune & the same mods it put down 294rwhp & 311 rwtq with an even leaner a/f ratio of 13.5-13.9...

I guess if anything, the a/f ratio is finally correct & it feels like its running smoother & a bit stronger....

I guess people are right when they say that dyno's are dissapointing usually....
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[ March 13, 2008, 11:49 PM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
 

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Posted by BlowN67 (Member # 4229) on :
 
i know but somemight now ... What car arewetalking about now
 

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Posted by 88DroptopGT (Member # 2535) on :
 
I think it needs a 100 shot and some sticky tires!
 

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Posted by 93PONY (Member # 60) on :
 
FFP's #'s are known to be all over the map.
My TT put down a whapping 506RWHP on that dyno.....& ran 10.1 @134mph 2 weeks later with a raceweight of over 3650lbs.

That dyno has the capability of loading the car down significantly more or less than a dynojet. There's far more adjustment than most think....& yes, it most definately effects the tune (since it's tuned based on load tables) & #'s that it produces.
 

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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
FFP's #'s are known to be all over the map.
My TT put down a whapping 506RWHP on that dyno.....& ran 10.1 @134mph 2 weeks later with a raceweight of over 3650lbs.

That dyno has the capability of loading the car down significantly more or less than a dynojet. There's far more adjustment than most think....& yes, it most definately effects the tune (since it's tuned based on load tables) & #'s that it produces.

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quote:

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Originally posted by EPIK:
So I finally got my car dyno tuned after the new mods. The numbers were decent, but I must say I am a bit dissapointed. My car put down 303 rwhp & 320 rwtq with an a/f ratio of 12.4-12.9 across the board. I think the timing is set @ about 19 degrees. This was on a Dyno Dynamics machine....

My mods are...
=Mac LT's
=Mac o/r H pipe
=Bassani catback
=C&L 85mm maf
=3/8" intake spacer

Do these #'s sound about right??

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Don't get to caught up in #s take it to the track and see how it runs. Any dyno you put that car on will spit out different #s. If it seems to run stronger and smoother than it did previously then you should be happy with the results.
 

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Posted by Tinner (Member # 2688) on :
 
My car w/ o/r h-pipe , under-drive pulleys , RAI and cut in chokemasters made 312rwhp and 333 rwtq on a dynojet.
 

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Posted by 2003 SVT ROUSH (Member # 7976) on :
 
I Was talking to you earlyer today bout it .... i deffinetly think that its good that your A/F is good -that one of the more inportant things .. esspecially considering how your car was acting at first on the Base pull ,Hell Kieth couldnt even finish a complete pull due to how dangerous your A/F seemed .. i look at it this way , your car came in their lean and you ended up with better power with the tune alot safer and running smoother , Now ... amongst other mach's running alot greater timming numbers i dont think your car is doing bad : ) and you have the power to advance timing higher if you want the only thing i would suggest is using race gas if you up the timming a alot if you go to the track , I think your car is doing good , and by the way i think if your car verses the other mach .. being pulled on the same day same air ect.. you will be out of the fog on that : )
Now if your talking Loading down the car on the dyno then i think that there would be some special scientific approach or tool to get every damn car on the dyno with the "correct" load math....... at every shop every dyno ect ect that every tuner would do/use haha

I think you have a good tune and i have heard of crayz numbers all over the place -that sound odd on AED's dyno FFPS ,NEXT GEN ect ect ect. on and on
IV had had times where i wasnt happy with FFP .. but at the end of the day Kieth has helped me out alot and hes made everything right. and hes a good dude and alot of people that have had their cars tuned through em run hard and safe .. Like my rings taking a shit with my whipple set up ... I will admit i will take most responsiblity for that cause i am the dumb ass that was running california 91 octane with 19-20 psi with a stock H/E ect and kieth did warn me at one point that i needed to go 15 and under on pump or use straight race gas at all times but since my car had been in the shop so long for other things i was too impatient and cheap and i only got to enjoy it for 2 weeks haha and the car was never running consistant and keith told me what to do but i wanted to go with the bandaids with my tune ...

Iv been kinda dissopointed with my numbers there at times but it has still beat up on cars making more power ect on the street . Ill bet when you get that mach on the road/track youll see some differences .. numbers are numbers too many small variables that add up .
No matter what Dustin you still have the cleanest Torch red Mach 1 in the damn world and thats 10 rwhp right there hahaha
Your cars bad ass i betcha gained numbers on your butt dyno hah

[ March 14, 2008, 06:50 PM: Message edited by: 2003 SVT ROUSH ]
 

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Posted by 2stangs69-91 (Member # 1951) on :
 
dyno numbers are overrated,they are for tunning your car on that exact day and for improvments on your car only. Bottom line if you are happy with how your car runs and performs then drive it
 

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Posted by 93PONY (Member # 60) on :
 
The knock sensor setup on the Mach1 is *touchy*...
It's very sensitive & has the capability to not only remove, but add timing as well!

The way I determine the timing on a Mach is to run the stock timing curve on an N/A setup & dial in the A/F till it's perfect. Then read the datalogs & see what the knock sensors are doing. If they're not pulling any timing, I'll add timing. If they're pulling timing at tip-in & not anywhere else, I'll adjust as neccessary. The timing curve is 'done' when the computer is neither adding nor removing any timing during the WOT dyno run.

With that being said, simply adding 4 degrees of timing with the hand-held will do virtually nothing since the computer will remove what it feels is neccessary in order to avoid knock.....& it saves the timing values (to avoid knock) in memory and applies them. In other words, if you run 87 octane at WOT & the computer senses knock & pulls 6 degrees of timing, the next time you go WOT with 91 octane it will still remove the 6 degrees of timing. (eventually it will add it back in, but it will do it slowly, over time)

However.....add some race gas, re-load the tune with 4 more degrees of timing & the car WILL respond. Re-setting the computer (by loading in a new program) will re-set the adaptive learning & you'll start out with the computer pulling zero timing.

Oh yeah....& dyno's are for tuning....nothing more.
The only #'s that matter are given to you after the 1/4 mile on the return road.

[ March 14, 2008, 10:15 PM: Message edited by: 93PONY ]
 

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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
The knock sensor setup on the Mach1 is *touchy*...
It's very sensitive & has the capability to not only remove, but add timing as well!

The way I determine the timing on a Mach is to run the stock timing curve on an N/A setup & dial in the A/F till it's perfect. Then read the datalogs & see what the knock sensors are doing. If they're not pulling any timing, I'll add timing. If they're pulling timing at tip-in & not anywhere else, I'll adjust as neccessary. The timing curve is 'done' when the computer is neither adding nor removing any timing during the WOT dyno run.

With that being said, simply adding 4 degrees of timing with the hand-held will do virtually nothing since the computer will remove what it feels is neccessary in order to avoid knock.....& it saves the timing values (to avoid knock) in memory and applies them. In other words, if you run 87 octane at WOT & the computer senses knock & pulls 6 degrees of timing, the next time you go WOT with 91 octane it will still remove the 6 degrees of timing. (eventually it will add it back in, but it will do it slowly, over time)

However.....add some race gas, re-load the tune with 4 more degrees of timing & the car WILL respond. Re-setting the computer (by loading in a new program) will re-set the adaptive learning & you'll start out with the computer pulling zero timing.

Oh yeah....& dyno's are for tuning....nothing more.
The only #'s that matter are given to you after the 1/4 mile on the return road.

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quote:

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Originally posted by EPIK:

quote:

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Originally posted by 93PONY:
The knock sensor setup on the Mach1 is *touchy*...
It's very sensitive & has the capability to not only remove, but add timing as well!

The way I determine the timing on a Mach is to run the stock timing curve on an N/A setup & dial in the A/F till it's perfect. Then read the datalogs & see what the knock sensors are doing. If they're not pulling any timing, I'll add timing. If they're pulling timing at tip-in & not anywhere else, I'll adjust as neccessary. The timing curve is 'done' when the computer is neither adding nor removing any timing during the WOT dyno run.

With that being said, simply adding 4 degrees of timing with the hand-held will do virtually nothing since the computer will remove what it feels is neccessary in order to avoid knock.....& it saves the timing values (to avoid knock) in memory and applies them. In other words, if you run 87 octane at WOT & the computer senses knock & pulls 6 degrees of timing, the next time you go WOT with 91 octane it will still remove the 6 degrees of timing. (eventually it will add it back in, but it will do it slowly, over time)

However.....add some race gas, re-load the tune with 4 more degrees of timing & the car WILL respond. Re-setting the computer (by loading in a new program) will re-set the adaptive learning & you'll start out with the computer pulling zero timing.

Oh yeah....& dyno's are for tuning....nothing more.
The only #'s that matter are given to you after the 1/4 mile on the return road.

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Since my car has the slight typical 32V valve tick noise coming from the driver head, The computer thought it was sesnsing knock & had it pulling about 8 degrees of timing out at WOT.It had to be that, because my car wasn't detonating at all???

We had to turn off the knock sensors for it to make the power it did??? With that said, is it safe to add anymore timing & run 91 octane???

There has to be more power potential in it???

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Considering you're running the same timing as an 03/04 Cobra on 15psi with 91octane....Yeah, I'd say you can add some timing & get away with it.
The way to do it properly is to run the car at the dragstrip & keep track of the timeslips. Once you've gotten 2 or 3 repeatable clean passes, add one degree of timing & see how the next 1 or 2 clean passes look. If you gained MPH in the 1/8th & 1/4, add another degree. Do this till MPH stops increasing & note where it ran it's best. That will be your maximum timing on 91 Octane. Also note that you can add timing in specific RPM bands....the lower RPM bands can be adjusted on the street by the seat of your pants....just be carefull & listen for any pinging.....specificly at tip-in (where the computer is transitioning from 45 degrees of part-throttle timing to 15 or so degrees of WOT timing).
 

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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on :
 
FFP had a dyno day today, so I put my car back on the dyno to see if i could get a few more out of it. With the timing set @ 22 degrees, it put down 315rwhp & 327rwtq.

As far as my track times, i have only raced at the track once in my life & i ran a horrible 13.7 @ 104. This was on bald street tires, 18X10 wheels, & dumped road race suspension.Also at the time my only mods were a catted H, catback, & a C&L maf, & my a/f ratio & timing were all f**ked up... I feel its definitely capable of 12's, I just gotta get some seat time in, which will be happening asap....




[ March 15, 2008, 11:51 PM: Message edited by: EPIK ]
 

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Posted by Pure Stang (Member # 7251) on :
 
not bad you gained a couple...
 

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Posted by F8LSN8K (Member # 7080) on :
 
nice

thats what my numbers should look like(or more) after my heads.
 

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Posted by jordan_0806 (Member # 5888) on :
 
Dustin the car looked sick today....definitely one of my favorite Machs out there...sounds great too
 

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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by jordan_0806:
Dustin the car looked sick today....definitely one of my favorite Machs out there...sounds great too

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quote:

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Originally posted by EPIK:

quote:

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Originally posted by jordan_0806:
Dustin the car looked sick today....definitely one of my favorite Machs out there...sounds great too

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Thanks Jason. I am diggin your SN95 bro... Sounds like its pretty nasty. I need that same hood & Cobra front fascia to finish off the cosmetic mods on my 95.

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quote:

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Originally posted by hidnn.o.s.:
Dustin, you have more power than me and a lighter car. I've ran a best of 12.701 on drag radials so 12's should come easily.

If you ever get out to Sears Point give me a week or so heads up and I'll make sure I'm out there.

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quote:

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Originally posted by jordan_0806:

quote:

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Originally posted by EPIK:

quote:

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Originally posted by jordan_0806:
Dustin the car looked sick today....definitely one of my favorite Machs out there...sounds great too

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Thanks Jason. I am diggin your SN95 bro... Sounds like its pretty nasty. I need that same hood & Cobra front fascia to finish off the cosmetic mods on my 95.

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if i can keep the thing from blowing through the damn clutch, It would be nasty...at this point I can't even tune it correctly.....

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Sup Jason, Yeah get your SN95 (5LVENOM) tuned and running right so you can run my fox, should be a good race. ...I finally got the blower back on.

Good job on the new #'s D

[ March 16, 2008, 07:17 AM: Message edited by: streakmatt ]
 

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Posted by MAXPSI (Member # 8093) on :
 
Good Job on the numbers!

I'm not sure on the gearing for your car but if properly set up you have the power to get into the 12.50's with good tires.

Congrats!!!
 

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Posted by EPIK (Member # 7481) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by MAXPSI:
Good Job on the numbers!

I'm not sure on the gearing for your car but if properly set up you have the power to get into the 12.50's with good tires.

Congrats!!!

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quote:

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Originally posted by 2003 SVT ROUSH:
Your car was a scrapper last night!!!

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quote:

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Originally posted by EPIK:

quote:

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Originally posted by 2003 SVT ROUSH:
Your car was a scrapper last night!!!

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What u mean?? Like "Doors open mayne" scraper, or a
"scrapper" as in a fighter??? LOL!!!

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